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Over-hydration, also known as barrier saturation, does not occur from drinking too much water, but from overwhelming the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin) with too many humectant-heavy products, such as serums, essences and creams. While the intention is good, the result is compromised skin barrier function.
Swelling: Does your skin look visibly puffy, overly smooth and almost 'waterlogged', to the extent that it loses its natural texture? If so, you are probably applying too much product.
Dampness: If your skin feels damp or sticky long after applying products, this indicates that the barrier is saturated and unable to properly absorb or regulate moisture.
Breakouts: You need to give your skin a break when you start to notice small, clear bumps (sometimes referred to as hydro-acne) or increased general congestion due to the barrier’s inability to effectively shed dead skin cells.
Redness: As you would expect, over-hydrated skin will eventually become fragile and show increased redness and sensitivity, and may even experience a slight stinging sensation, because the barrier has been disrupted and stripped of its natural lipids.
How to correct itTemporarily cut back on all but the most basic products. Use only a gentle, non-foaming cleanser and a barrier-repair cream.
Choose moisturisers that are rich in ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids to help rebuild the skin's lipid barrier. Avoid relying too heavily on pure humectants, especially those with high concentrations of hyaluronic acid, until your skin has stabilised.
Apply moisturiser once a day, ideally at night, and allow the skin to self-regulate during the day.
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Stop using all chemical and physical exfoliants, such as AHAs, BHAs and retinoids, to give the barrier time to heal.
Focus on lipid replenishment to give your skin time to dry out slightly, allowing the natural barrier function to be restored.
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