Are hair oils worth the hype?

It is a common misconception that oils hydrate hair. In reality, hair requires moisture derived from water. The primary function of an oil is to act as a sealant. It works by forming a protective lipid barrier on the surface of the hair shaft, which locks in moisture that has previously been applied.

Applying oil to dry hair without a water-based moisturiser underneath is counterproductive, as the oil simply coats the hair, leaving it susceptible to brittleness and breakage.

There is also a risk of applying too much oil, which can lead to product build-up, attract dirt and hinder the scalp’s ability to breathe.

To maximise the benefits of oils, a specific application is advisable.

Moisturise: Start with freshly cleansed, damp hair. Apply a water-based leave-in conditioner or a rich moisturiser. This saturates the hair with the essential moisture it needs to stay pliable and healthy.

Seal with oil: After the moisturiser has been applied, use a small, measured amount of oil to seal the moisture into the hair strand. This is the ‘’LOC’’ (liquid, oil, cream) or ‘’LCO’’ (liquid, cream, oil) method, which is highly effective for high-porosity hair types like 4C.

Proper use: Oils can also be used for scalp massages, so don’t overlook that. This is not for moisture but rather to stimulate blood flow to the hair follicles, which can support healthy growth. A very small amount is all that’s needed to prevent clogging the follicles.

Selecting the right oil is crucial as each one possesses unique properties. For healthy, long, natural 4C hair, you should consider any of the following:

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Castor oil: A dense, viscous oil that is an excellent sealant. It coats the hair shaft effectively, thus making it a powerful choice for retaining moisture.

Jojoba Oil: This oil’s molecular structure closely resembles the scalp’s natural sebum, allowing it to penetrate and regulate the scalp’s oil production without clogging pores.

Argan oil: This lightweight oil is rich in fatty acids and Vitamin E. It provides a lustrous shine and helps to improve the manageability of the hair without weighing it down.

Coconut oil: This fan favourite is uniquely capable of penetrating the hair shaft and helping reduce protein loss. However, you should monitor how your hair responds as some hair types are sensitive to its effects.