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Setting out at first light towards Paradise Plain, I saw and heard my first lion. He was sitting on a termite mound, perhaps half a mile from where we had parked our vehicle and was clearly visible through my binoculars, a full-grown male with a tobacco-coloured mane. The highland air was crisp and cold, and with every roar I could see his breath condensing in white puffs, like smoke from a dragon’s nostrils.
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