Where the largest number of lions in Africa roam

Naboisho is a Maasai word for “come together.” It is also the name of a 50,000-acre wildlife conservancy located northeast of Masai National Reserve. Close to a decade ago, about 500 Maasai landowners came together, carved some land out of Koiyaki-Lamek Group Ranch to create the conservancy. To tourists and locals alike, Naboisho was a game-changer. This conservancy has some of the highest wildlife concentration anywhere in the region. Before we talk about my adventure in Naboisho, a brief history of conservation here is in order.

Many years ago, the Maasai lived in perfect harmony with the wild animals. Then came the tourists and their need to roam large swathes of the country in search of the wild animals. The greater Mara area provided the perfect location for these encounters. The Maasai also love their cows and saw their grazing fields dwindle as more land was set aside for the construction of lodges, campsites and related amenities. Masai Mara was born.

Recently, however conflicts have emerged between wildlife conservators and the local communities. Wildlife had to be protected at all costs, said the conservators. To the Maasai, cows have the right of way – always. That is a conflict brewed in an African pot. In came the conservancies where wildlife would coexist with domestic animals in a symbiotic relationship. Get it? Good.

Back to Naboisho. I have had friends in conservation who regaled me with wildlife encounters in the conservancy in contrast to the tourism “overkill” that is Masai Mara National Reserve. Don’t get me wrong though. I have visited the Mara over and over again and the wildlife spectacle is incredible. The famed migration takes place at the heart of the reserve, reeling in tourists from around the world like moths to the fire. I just think the park has a long way to go in sustaining what we have – a national gem that has catapulted our country to global fame.

Raphael, an affable young man from the community, met me at the local airstrip.  I had met the young lad earlier on another trip in the region. Raphael is a product of the nearby Koiyaki Guiding School and was under the tutelage of one Jackson Looseyia who shot to global acclaim due to his wildlife commentary on BBC’s Big Cat Diaries. 

My encounter with wildlife started as soon as we left the airstrip for the camp. Using a dry trunk of an acacia, three cheetah brothers (Raphael said they were brothers) cast their gaze far into the horizon. A herd of impalas was grazing a distance away. A lone topi stared into the direction of the three musketeers with little care. A hunt was imminent, or so we thought. We waited, and waited some more. In the wild, you need patience, a lot of patience. I needed to explore more of the conservancy rather than wait on some creatures that can turn me into lunch if a hunt fails.

Another 100 metres away, a pride of lions basked in the mid-morning sun next to vehicle tracks, oblivious of any dangers from passing vehicles. They had no reason to fear. Naboisho limits the number of tourists – and vehicles – entering the conservancy. Crowding around any particular animal species is taboo. Guests must maintain a distance of not less than 20 metres from the animals. For the whole morning, we didn’t chance upon any other vehicle, unlike the reserve where animals cannot have their rare steak (no medium rare here) in peace. A little distance away, a large lion was busy cohabiting with a young lioness in what fellows here term as the “bush wedding.” He can mate up to a 100 times a day – truly the King of Beasts! With such ‘love’ brewing here, it is no wonder that Naboisho has the highest density of lions in Africa.

Later in the afternoon, I had the opportunity to take a walk on the wild side, observing the little things that tourist cameras miss while on safari.  A termite mound, a blade of grass or fresh dung from a cow or other herbivore plays a key role in the cycle of life here.  Tired from the walk, it was time to warm in the evening fire, relieve the day’s wild encounters with a glass of wine. In the end, it all comes together at Naboisho.