Solange Knowles, Tyra Banks and Oprah Winfrey are some of the women who sparked off the worldwide 'going natural' trend in 2009 after the release of Chris Rock's comedy documentary Good Hair. Ten years later, the trend is coming back to Africa where it actually began, writes LYDIA LIMBE.
It has taken the streets of Kenyan streets by storm. Natural hair. Everywhere you look, women are rocking natural hair in various shapes, forms and styles. Some have colour, others are styled into various versions of the afro or into bantu knots, baby locks or dreadlocks.
Carol Oyola a broadcast writer and reporter at CCTV says she previously had relaxed hair styled into a cropped bob. She says she felt like she was always in the salon getting her hair flat ironed into shape.
"My hair was badly damaged from all the heat. When I realised how bad my hair was, I made the decision to go natural," says Carol.
KTN anchor Joy Doreen Biira says that although caring for natural hair was not new to her, her decision to go natural was a bold step.
"I had natural hair when I was in Uganda. But in 2010, I relaxed my hair. I think the hairdresser may have over processed it, as it was badly damaged at the back. I decided to chop it off, since it was thin and unhealthy.
"I asked my bosses at KTN if I could go on air with my natural hair and all of them approved. The response from viewers was also very positive. I think it's a huge statement to other women when female media personalities go on air with their natural hair," says Doreen.
Wacuka Thimba, a renowned natural hair blogger, says that taking care of natural hair is new to many women in Kenya.
"We have grown up either weaving and plaiting our hair, or relaxing it. We have no idea how to care for natural hair, that is why it's a big decision for a lot of people," says Wacuka Thimba.
Transitioning
Some women choose to transition gradually to natural hair. As the natural hair continues to grow, the over-processed hair is chopped off in bits. Others like Doreen Biira, just go straight for the chop. But Wacuka is quick to point out that natural hair is not for everybody.
"We tend to do things because it's the trend then. Not everybody would like to have natural hair. The main goal should be to have healthy hair, and it takes a lot of work and patience to do that," she adds.
Natural hair comes in different textures. Andre Walker, who has styled media proprietor Oprah Winfrey's hair for the past 24 years, says there are different types of hair - variance lying in the coarseness. He groups hair into various groups with C being the most coarse and most common among Africans.
Wacuka advises that instead of trying to fit yourself into these hair type classifications, take time and learn your hair.
"Natural hair at the beginning is about learning what works with it. Try the different products; notice how they react with your hair. This will also help you to understand your hair much better," Wacuka says.
Media girl Carol Oyola, says she had to do a lot of research to know the type of products to use on her hair.
"I spent a lot of time on the Internet looking for information. Whatever I read that appealed to me, I tried. In about two months, I already knew how my hair was responding to various products. Some I discarded, others I still use to date," she says.
It's been two and a half years since she's started growing her natural but coloured afro. Even she got a lot of support from her bosses as well as positive responses from viewers.
Hair regimen
Joy Doreen Biira, says she visits the salon once every week for an olive oil or aloe-vera treatment. During these visits her hair is coiled then 'frozen'. She then washes it daily at home with shampoo, dries it and seals in any moisture with Ethiopian oil for natural hair.
Ingredients from her own kitchen have also come in handy. Her most favourite is avocado and egg treatment, which Doreen says makes her hair very soft and easy to comb.
Carol says she takes the same do-it-yourself approach with her natural hair.
"Every two weeks, I deep condition my hair with products bought from the stores. I then add a bit of honey and olive oil to them and use the same to spray my hair every morning and evening. In my spray bottle, I've mixed water, rosewater, glycerin, conditioner and extra virgin olive oil," says Carol Oyola.
Wacuka also uses products mostly found in her kitchen.
"I treat my hair with a mix of honey, olive oil, and conditioner. My hair responds very well to coconut oil. So when I've weaved or braided my hair, after cleaning with apple-cider vinegar, I spray it with water mixed with extra virgin coconut oil," she says.
All three agree that what you eat plays a big role in the quality of hair that one has. The motto 'what's good for your hair is good for your body' rules. The avocadoes, honey, eggs, olive and coconut oil as well as other natural products should be regularly included regularly in one's diet.
Support group
It is no secret. Hair is a big deal to women. Going natural is an unknown to many, and its topics like these that are discussed in support groups. The most popular ones are on Facebook; Kurlly Diaries, which had 1,500 members and Tricia's Naturals, which had 8,900 members at the time of going to press.
Carol says she got a lot of the support she needed during her transition from Kurlly Diaries.
"I found it vibrant, talking about lots of stuff aside from hair. Of course, there are many practical pieces of advice on what to do with your hair. What I like most about the group is the product reviews from members – it shortened my research time," says Carol.
Josephine Wabuu Wanjohi, one of the administrators of this group on social media says the group was started mainly as a support "for women who are going natural and needed a platform to share their experiences, questions, and find useful information."
The groups have grown from cyberspace and mushroomed into events for naturalistas with women coming together to compare notes about natural hair care, and show off their hairstyles. Some of these events, such as the AfroNywele Experience and the Natural Hair Expo, have attracted a good number of sponsors are promising as annual events.
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