The true cost of skin bleaching on health and identity

A doctor examines a patient after plastic surgery. [Getty Images] Every time Caroline* looked at herself in the mirror, she felt a sense of dissatisfaction. Each selfie she took was altered with filters that made her appear lighter than she truly was. One day, as she aimlessly scrolled through the internet, she stumbled upon a skin-bleaching product that promised to transform her appearance-and it did, for a while. "At first, everything was great. I was thrilled with the results. But after a year, I started noticing dark spots on my bleached skin. Then my feet began to swell, and the doctor told me my kidneys had been damaged by the bleaching," she recalls, her voice heavy with regret. For Johnstone Olang, 50, every morning is a reminder of the delicate care his lightened skin requires. Never without his Maxilight cream, a product that lightens his hands and face more than the rest of his body, Olang has been bleaching since childhood. Unapologetic, he brushes off the whispers and stares that follow him as he walks through the streets. He has been uncomfortable with his dark skin since he was five. His siblings had fairer skin, and at 10, a friend told him about a cream that would make him look just like them. READ: Dermatologists warn skin bleaching could cause kidney failure, cancer "I just wanted to look like my siblings. I felt like an outsider. I could never embrace my dark skin," he confesses, pain still evident in his voice. Psychologist Jacqueline Gathu offers some insight into why many people resort to skin-bleaching. "One reason is the desire to attract the opposite sex. But more deeply, there's colourism-prejudice or discrimination against those with darker skin tones, often from within the same ethnic or racial group," she explains. A 2010 study titled Skin Bleaching in Jamaica: Self-Esteem, Racial Self-Esteem, and Black Identity Transactions examined the self-esteem (SE) and racial self-esteem (RSE) of black Jamaicans. The study found that those who bleached their skin had lower self-esteem compared to non-bleachers, but both groups had comparable mean racial self-esteem. These results suggest a negative relationship between self-esteem and skin bleaching. "If you look at what was happening in the 70s, 80s, 90s, and early 2000s, beauty standards were defined by the people we watched on TV. Tyra Banks, for example, was our standard of beauty," says Hafsa Arthur, the regional head of category and brands at PZ Cussons. Hafsa adds that for Africans and people of colour to combat colourism, it's essential to acknowledge that it exists. In Ghana, some women who are pregnant take certain pills so that their babies will be born with lighter skin. Dr Saini Roop, a consultant dermatologist, states that skin bleaching is a common but very risky practice, not just in Kenya, but in many other parts of the world. "While many people use skin-bleaching products to remove dark spots, uneven skin tone, hyper-pigmentation, and scars, bleached skin is weak skin since it cannot withstand the effects of ultraviolet (UV) rays," she explains. Companies that sell these products also promote the idea that lighter skin is more desirable, making people believe that skin bleaching is the best solution. These ideas have been passed down through generations, stemming from colonial history, and are perpetuated by the media and societal expectations. "There are safe treatments for hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone, but bleaching your entire skin is not safe at all. Some products and ingredients, such as vitamin C, niacinamide (Vitamin B-3), and kojic acid, are dermatologically approved," Dr Roop explains. However, many bleaching creams contain harmful chemicals, such as steroids, which can cause skin thinning and other long-term health problems. "A high dosage of hydroquinone can cause Ochronosis, a paradoxical permanent darkening of the skin. Other chemicals, such as mercury, can damage the skin and nerves. Many products on the market can cause health defects," Dr Roop warns. She adds that skin bleaching can cause extreme sensitivity, acne, and ochronosis-a bluish-black discolouration of the skin. Other organs, such as the kidneys, can be damaged through mercury poisoning. Certain steroid-based creams can affect metabolism, leading to high blood pressure and diabetes. Prolonged use of other products can even cause skin cancer. ALSO READ: Skin bleaching in Africa: An 'addiction' with risks Mental health is also affected when these products harm your health. Dermatologists strongly advise against skin bleaching because of the associated risks. Dr Roop says, "Instead of changing your skin colour, we need to focus on healthy skincare. Healthy skin is more beautiful, regardless of complexion." With many skin-bleaching clinics in Nairobi alone, it is difficult to know which ones use legitimate and legal products, as most of them are in business to make money rather than help people achieve healthy skin. In October 2022, the Kenya Bureau of Standards (KEBS) announced it had seized and banned 435 cosmetics from the market, including skin-brightening lotions, creams, gels, and soaps that contained hydroquinone, mercury, and its compounds. Dr Roop says skin bleaching can be reversed if it has been done for a short time, provided you stop using the bleaching products and embrace healthy skin habits. However, extreme sensitivity to the sun is a challenge to treat.

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