Peaceful retreat in the Rift

In the eastern limb of East Africa’s Great Rift Valley lies a beautiful vacation lodge nicely set up amidst a tranquil and peaceful environment, writes Allan Olingo.

Friday was a slow day so I thought: what would be better than taking a trip to Elementaita? Thus I placed my agenda for weekend soccer in the closet, locked my office work in the drawer and headed to the Rift Valley.

Taking the 90 minutes drive from Nairobi to Elementaita along the newly re-carpeted highway is itself an adventure.

Every time I drive past Limuru where the road opens to a viewpoint of the Great Rift Valley, I never cease to be amazed at the stunning view of the escarpment.

Curio shops eager for tourist stopovers are set up by the cliff displaying bright coloured kikois set against the substantial drop of the valley with a spectacular view of Mt Longonot at the horizon.

Lake Elementaita, I had been told, is home to flamingoes, great white pelicans and great crested birds among others. Apparently, it is a paradise for any bird watcher, though I’m not an avian enthusiast.

A bonfire in the garden. It provides an opportunity for interaction after dinner

I longed to visit the natural warm spa flowing into the lake. Cameras clicked as we sped along the Nairobi-Mai Mahiu-Naivasha highway, capturing the peaceful scenic views.

On arrival at Elementaita, we were greeted by thousands of rosy pink flamingoes in the distance. To the naked eye, they looked like pink spots and I cursed why I didn’t bring my binoculars along.

With evening fast approaching, we made our way to Elementaita Country Lodge where we had been booked. A cool breeze from the lake was refreshing. Even in the dark you could tell the beautiful lawns from the smell of crisp grass.

The walk from the main reception to the rooms revealed carefully tended gardens and a vast swimming pool surrounded with well-manicured bushes.

The ambience, fragrance and dÈcor of the room was worth the Sh13,000 charge per night.

For someone used to Nairobi’s chaos from traffic, pubs, hawkers, touts and matatus, this place is divine.

Feasting

After a hot bath, we retreated to the classy restaurant for dinner. I was not hungry but my colleague practically twisted my arm. When the food came, I was stunned.

I was enraptured by the exotic flavours of the rice and stewed lamb dish with a mild spicy sauce.

After the meal, we headed downstairs to the bar for drinks. The local DJ, a fellow by the name Stano was playing lovely hip-hop music. Within no time, the other guests joined and soon the dancing floor was full.

A huge bonfire was lit outside courtesy of a group from a local bank who were here for team building. We joined the group and soon we were regaling each other with stories. When the yawns became part and parcel of every sentence, I knew it was time to hit the sack.

The musical chirping of birds on the trees outside was welcome and so different from the crows of my neighbour’s rooster and noises of vehicles passing on the road near my house in Nairobi’s Umoja Estate. The birds made me feel fresh and relaxed.

Bird species

A twin bedroom. The decor and ambience is appealing

On drawing the curtains, I was enthralled by the sight of the sun rising from the edges of the lake. This was the single most beautiful experience and it made my lips twirl up in a smile.

From the comfort of my room, I watched a few pelicans, flamingoes and a few dikdiks go about their business.

I wanted to enjoy the scenery so I decided to take a walk, barefoot, to the lake and feel the cold water under my feet.

More than 430 different bird species have been identified in the Naivasha-Elementaita-Nakuru belt. Lake Elementaita is the only known breeding place for the lovely pelicans in the East and Central Africa region.

I spotted a lot of bird species but with my little knowledge, I could only enjoy their colours and sizes! Kalama John from the lodge, who acted as a resident naturalist, explained that flamingoes are sensitive to noise, which is why fishing and boat riding is not allowed within the lake because it will force them further away from sight.

The nature walk was lovely though part of the trail was under water. It’s a downhill walk to the lake, through bushes used by the Maasai to brush teeth.

Kalama made the walk more interesting by spinning tales of the colonial days and how this land came to be sub-divided amongst ranchers.

The lake is beautifully set with a variety of birdlife flirting among the trees and reeds sheltering the shore. The underground hotsprings bubbling underfoot are therapeutic, especially if you are walking barefoot. Beyond the lake are volcanic rocks that can damage the feet, hence you are advised to walk with closed shoes.

Huge appetite

Two hours later, we made our way to back to the lodge for breakfast. It’s amazing how a simple walk can work up a huge appetite. For a hot air balloon ride, one has make prior arrangements with GoBallooning Kenya, the company operating them here.

The balloon ride starts before sunrise in the cool crisp air and costs about Sh25,000 an hour.

While I enjoyed many cups of traditional uji (porridge) with sweet potatoes, pancakes and a glass of mango juice, other guests sweated it out at the lodge’s expansive gym while others took easy jogs around the lodge.

It was with a heavy heart that we packed our belongings and headed back to Nairobi that afternoon.

I know I will be back soon, particularly for the balloon ride.