Try out the delights of Kenya's South Coast

Kamotho Waiganjo

I suspect there will be enough analysis of politics of Jubilee merger, the ever-mutating politics of CORD and the IEBC deal to quench all your political analysis thirst this weekend. Consequently, allow me to diversify your menu with some mundane but delightful aspects of this great nation by taking you on a ride far from maddening and jam packed Nairobi to the South Coast, that part of Kenya that up county people call Mombasa but which is actually in Kwale County.

Now, I have been in South Coast numerous times but most times I stay in my hotel out of sheer exhaustion. This time I chose to become quite the local tourist.

Sadly getting there is not fun. Until they complete the Dongo Kundu bypass, the ferry ride remains a nightmare and robs this beautiful county many potential visitors. If you however withstand the long jam to the ferry and the occasional scare as the ferry threatens to head to the open seas you will find yourself in Diani, which has some of the best sandy beaches this country boasts.

The Leopard Beach and its similar size neighbours remain large but tranquil and cozy, and are great for families and conferences. It is sad that the former jewels of the South Coast, the Alliance Hotels, are still comatose.

Every time I drove by Safari Beach it broke my heart; I have fond memories of great times in these three hotels’ heyday. What I found this time is that there are now numerous boutique hotels in Diani; much smaller, catering to less than 50 guests. Their service is personalised and while you may not find the ebullient evening entertainment available in their bigger neighbours, they are the ideal place for quiet “me time” if this is what brings you to South Coast. Nothing beats “The Maji” in this respect.

With tourists slowly drifting back, many of the hotels that catered to the foreign tourist are slowly rising again but others like the Baobab have taken to local tourism and are recovering as more and more Kenyans take to regular holidaying. For the young and restless, a late night at the energetic Shakattack is worth a try, but I give no warranty on the state you will be in by the time you leave its packed disco hall. To put it politely, this hall has the greatest population per capita of young girls outside a girl’s high school and they were glad to have the Law Society of Kenya in town this week.

For those that want to impress a spouse or their love heart, and I hope those two are resident in the same person, a dinner at the Ali Barbour Caves Restaurant is a must do. This restaurant is built inside caves that have been there for over 150,000 years and once you go deep into its caverns you will partake of the best lobster in the whole world. The place is however so popular that you must ensure you get a booking in advance. Amazingly, they arrange complimentary pick up from your hotel! If however your delight is in local cuisine, I suggest you try the Swahili Dishes roadside restaurants and you will sample great Biriyani and Pilau masala.

A visit to the South Coast is incomplete without a boat ride to the beautiful Wasini Islands where its friendly local population will lift your spirits with their Swahili stories as you enjoy sumptuous crabmeat and similar seafood. You will also get a chance to swim with the dolphins and watch the humpback whales.

Diani is however not just food and dance. One of my bucket list items has been the opportunity to sky dive and it was a delight to find that skydiving is now a popular sport in Diani. For younger risk takers you can attempt the fall by yourself but you need eight hours training before they can allow you a solo jump. For the not so young like myself a jump with instructor is just as satisfying. It was difficult to leave this beautiful part of Kenya where life is easy; the people are friendly and the weather just right. I hereby commend the South Coast to you.