African designers challenge the narrative on sustainable leather

A model poses with a design by Eddie Louis of Uganda during the 2025 RLSD Africa competition showcase in Zambia. [Courtesy]

A design competition that began as a continental experiment is now positioning Africa at the centre of a global conversation on sustainable fashion.

The Real Leather. Stay Different. (RLSD) Africa Talent Leather Design Showcase has opened its fourth edition, drawing in designers from across the continent.

The showcase, run jointly by the Africa Leather and Leather Products Institute (ALLPI) and the Leather & Hide Council of America (LHCA), opened registrations on February 2.

Designers can submit work in three categories: apparel, accessories and footwear. All entries must incorporate at least 50 per cent cowhide leather by surface area.

 The use of fur or exotic skins is prohibited.

Over six years of global operations, the broader RLSD campaign has reached more than 7,500 students from 720 universities across 48 countries.

Within Africa specifically, the results have been striking. Ethiopia's Ruth Girmay won the Most Commendable Designer award in both 2023 and 2024.

Egypt's Farida Eid, who studied design in Milan, claimed the same honour in 2025, becoming the first non-Ethiopian to win the title.

Kenya's Stephen Maosa won the People's Choice Award in consecutive years, a first in the showcase's history.

"Africa is no longer participating in the sustainability conversation from the margins — it is helping define it," noted Kerry Brozyna, president of the LHCA.

The competition challenges a common assumption: that leather is inherently environmentally harmful.

Organisers argue that hides are byproducts of the meat and dairy industries and would otherwise end up in landfills, with an estimated 130 million discarded annually.

By transforming those hides into durable, long-lasting products, designers are making the case that leather is a more sustainable option than the synthetic alternatives powering fast fashion.

It is a counterintuitive pitch, and it appears to be gaining traction. Past winners have presented their work in London, Milan and Taipei. Eid, the 2025 champion, represented the continent at the international RLSD showcase in Taipei in October.

Nicholas Mudungwe, executive director of ALLPI, explained that the competition has moved beyond recognition.

"As Africa advances its leather value chains, initiatives like RLSD play a catalytic role, translating raw potential into globally competitive, sustainable products while anchoring value creation in African talent," he noted.

Design submissions close on June 5. Selected designs will be announced on June 26, and physical product submissions will run from July 3 to August 7.