What 'Middle Kenya' has for you in energy and adventure

A cyclist races as a tower of giraffes crosses the road on the outskirts of Lake Naivasha, Nakuru County. [Elvis Ogina, Standard]

It has been a while since I wrote a “know your country” piece and so this week I want to introduce you to the delights of the Eastern part of “Middle Kenya” comprising Nakuru, Nyandarua and Laikipia counties.

Most of us who travel to that region are content to visit “Vasha” with its numerous entertainment offerings. Naivasha is an upcoming city where one is spoilt for choice.

Whether it’s a golf game among zebras at the Great Rift Valley Lodge, or all night dancing at Enashipai’s Wave nightclub where DJ Adrian occasionally spins your favourite soul and blues, or whether you opt for a quiet escape at Chui Lodge, or prefer low budget family camping at the numerous sites dotted along Moi South Road, Naivasha gives it to you full to overflowing.

The only warning, avoid Vasha on big dates like Easter or Christmas, you will spend a night on the road, fortunately not alone, many revelers leave Nairobi in those seasons never intending to reach Naivasha!

If you venture further to Nakuru, Sarova’s Woodlands on the outskirts of the city is a must stop. But before you get to Nakuru, do not miss the hidden gem managed by The Serena in Elementaita. That is luxury tenting at its best, wrapped in legendary Serena standards.

If you are the adventurous kind, you will have halted for roadside “nyama” offerings at Kikopey and similar outfits spread out on that stretch.

Once you get to Nakuru you will find that like its younger sister Vasha, it offers golf and dancing, but adds the expansive Lake Nakuru National Park from where you can watch all manner of game and of course the world-famous ostriches.  

However, I want to suggest that instead of going all the way to Nakuru, turn off into Gilgil towards Nyahururu.

As soon as you pass busy boisterous but unkempt Gilgil, you will find another hidden treasure, appreciated mostly by golfers and members of Hackers Inc like yours truly.

The Gilgil golf Club is a full 9-hole course that allows you to tee off across the busy Gilgil-Nyahururu Road and then “dogleg” into some wonderful fairways across the road from the club house.

Heading to Nyahururu you will be shocked by the newly established Nyandarua County headquarters in Ol-Kalau. If you want to know the real impact of devolution, this town is a must visit.

What used to be a sleepy roadside shopping centre is now a bustling town, complete with high rise buildings, cozy lounge bars and housing estates.

Finally, you will reach the other delight of that region, Nyahururu town, famous for what used to be known as Thomson Falls. Through post-independence “gerrymandering”, this town is part of Laikipia County, even though it lies right within Nyandarua County, a matter that was very contentious at the inception of devolution.

Nyahururu boasts one of the best hotels in these parts, the Panari Resort on one side of the Nyahururu Falls. This hotel could be anywhere in Nairobi or Mombasa and still be competitive. It is the one hotel outside Nairobi that has abundant wine offerings on the menu and always has everything in stock.

It has a colonial look to it with antique carriages that take you to their charming villas. Whatever you do, do not forget to ask for a fire in the room, the evenings can suddenly get very chilly.

By now you know I am a member of Hackers Inc. so you should not be surprised by my demand that you do not leave Nyahururu before you play a round of golf at the scenic Nyahururu Sports Club.

The club is about to complete its “back nine” to make it a full course but even in its current state, it is not to be missed.

If you have some energy, take a drive to Rumuruti town, and then take a right turn into the murram road that will drop you to the expansive Sweetwaters reserve.

Here, you will have your fill of wild game including the rare rhino. If you are the kind who thinks of Kenyan holidays in terms of the Coast only, you are missing out on the whole panoply of Magical Kenya.

-The writer is an advocate of the High Court of Kenya