A jaunt into the enchanting Magadi

It has been three years since I was in the sun soaked Magadi whose memories of its pink and white salt lakes still tease me on gloomy days. Going back there was a welcome opportunity.

While public transport is available to Magadi, it is only suited for the strictly no frills adventurer and a self-drive is more appropriate for an excursion into the expansive area. The journey takes approximately five hours from Nairobi.

I also recommend a three-night stay if one is to fully sample the magic of the Magadi eco-system. I booked two nights at the boutique Lentorre Lodge, the only lodge on in the Olkiramatian-Shompole area.

I had a taxi cart me to Magadi through Kiserian town. From Kiserian, we carried on straight down the Magadi Road towards Corner Baridi where we stopped for a nyama choma lunch while taking in the Ngong Hills. After the filling meal, we were back on the road for another 80 kilometres to Magadi town. There, we signed the mandatory visitor's book at the security barrier before crossing some soda pans dotted with flamingos.

When the Magadi factory came into view, we bore left onto a tarmacked road that led us to our last pit-stop; the Magadi Club House where the general manager and head guide of Lentorre, Peter Kiyaa welcomed us. Kiiya, I later found out, is one of the 18 guides to be awarded the gold rating by Kenya Professional Safari Guides Association.

Besides that, he is a long-time chair of the Il Ngwesi Community Conservation Trust – a world renowned community wildlife conservation trust and also an elder of the Council of Elders of the Northern Rangelands Trust. He escorted us to Lentorre on a short trip that doubled up as a game drive.
On getting there, I am enthused by my choice in accommodation.

Lentorre is built on a spur overlooking a vast untouched wilderness with thriving umbrella thorn trees and the colourful toothbrush trees. It opens up to the warm African breeze with an un-spoilt view of the wilderness looking down to the ever changing shades of Mt Shompole.

A natural acacia forest surrounds the lodge. While exploring the lodge in a bid to stretch my legs after the long journey, I discovered the perennial spring of Lentorre which provides year round sustenance for the diverse wildlife that inhabits the Olkiramatian Conservancy.

We woke up to some game drives and surprisingly didn't run into other tour vehicles thus giving us a free run on the conservancy. Despite a warning of the presence of 65 resident lions, I was allowed to sit by the waterhole to enjoy the views and take some pictures. We later chanced on some leopards.
According to Kiiya, the Olkiramatian lands were devoid of major carnivores and on the Maasai elders realising that they were quickly losing a part of their heritage, created the conservancy to ensure that their community development would not be at the cost of their wildlife.

A buffer zone was set up along the core conservation area providing a break between the community and the core conservancy. There are now numerous animals with a predator population second only to Maasai Mara's. There is actually a short film; Shall We Dance, by cinematographer Anna Campbell on the success of the conservation efforts.

Top activities to do in Lentorre
• Star gazing
During the full moon, there is usually no need for lighting up the camp. It is a perfect escape activity for couples who could sleep out under the stars.

• Fly camping
Given the vastness of the land, you can opt to fly camp out in the bush. Fly camping is sleeping in an exclusive camp out in the wild away from your base camp. You can organise to have this done to fully explore the area.

• Aerial exploring
Using choppers to explore the area is a fantastic way to spend a day, with scenic flights through the Loita hills and waterfalls. Settle at Lake Natron for a champagne sundowner, a hot springs visit, and back to the lodge for a shower.

• Waterhole watching
Being an arid area, fresh water is a sought after commodity in Magadi. Spending some time around one will enable you to watch the game trooping for water. Baboons, impalas, giraffes, zebras, lions, leopards, spotted hyenas, and most recently, the elephants are common sightings. The waterhole also attracts some animals that are seldom seen on safari such as porcupines, aardwolves and striped hyenas.

By the numbers:
65
The number of resident lions in the conservancy
110
The distance in kilometres between Nairobi and Magadi