Take it or leave it: Gender identities and sexuality are key to spirituality, culture

Nzambani rock near Kitui. The rock has a gender mystery surrounding it (Photo: Courtesy)

By any calculus, the mysterious Nzambani Rock outside Kitui Town is an enigma. This marvel of nature – the unique rock outgrowth juts 600 feet or 184 metres above the ground – speaks in many tongues. It’s a beguiling – some say living – wonder of the world. It beckons – from every corner of the earth – one and all with its bewitching tales of the metaphysical. Its origins are shrouded in the paranormal – the supernormal. Most Kenyan schools sent their students to bathe and wallow in the glory and mysticism of Nzambani Rock. On a recent visit, I climbed to the very top. In this piece, I recount myth, culture, and the intersection of gender, spirituality, religion, sexuality, and the futility of skepticism.

First, some optics. From the top of Nzambani Rock, one gets a 360-degree clear view of Kitui County. The Rock itself is visible from 60 miles away. It’s a shame the state has done virtually nothing to make Nzambani Rock a tourist attraction. The short 45-minute drive from the edge of Kitui Town could take a mere 20 minutes if the road – one can’t call it that – wasn’t so pathetic. It boggles the mind why the government, or private entrepreneurs, haven’t taken advantage of such a national jewel. I expect the county government under Governor Charity Ngilu to mount and facilitate an entertainment complex on site including lodging, restaurants, a decent visitor center, shops, and other fun outlets.