Letter from Murang'as famous Gatura, the home of microfinance banks

An aerial view of a section of Kenol town in Murang'a. [Edward Kiplimo, Standard]

On reading my piece on Ndaka-ini, Prof JH Kimura, known for the Ndaka-ini Marathon and a native of the place, reached out to me. Are you aware that the first tarmac road in Murang'a was from Thika to Gatura, a town that seems home to microfinance? I counted three.

He added that if I see any pothole on that road, I should call him. I took up the challenge and drove to Gatura.  I only saw a small pothole near Rwegetha.

The road is over 60 years old. Roads built last year have potholes. What happened to building to last?

I stopped at Gatura, once "mwisho wa lami” for tea at Eliper Hotel, more elegant than Kaihuri in Ndaka-ini, where I had feasted recently.

Tea was Sh50 and ndazi Sh25. Remember, tea was Sh20 at Kaihuri and ndazi Sh10? A serviette made holding ndazi easy at Eliper, a great improvement over wheat-flour karatasi at Kaihuri. Life can be easy. Check the price of a cup of tea at a five-star hotel,

I learnt Eliper is Elias and Perpetual. Such permutation of names is common in Mrima (Mount Kenya region). After taking the professor's challenge, I explored deeper into tea country through Mbugiti Kimandi, Ndaka-ini, Gichecheni (big station?), before crossing over to Gituro.

Without Google Maps, I found myself in Kiangari before Kangari, a bigger and more vibrant town than Kiangari. In the Mrima language, Kiangari should be bigger than Kangari!

The sun was setting, and I headed to Thika through Githumu, Gichagi-ini, Ruchu, Gatìiguru (top of a seat), Ngoe, Gacharage, Kiguoya, Kibereke, Ng’araria, Kandara Business Park, Kaha-ini and back to Thika.

As I got back to the city, the road built 63 years ago was still in my mind. Did it make a difference to the lives of the citizens?

Except for Kandara Business Park and Jawaci rice millers near Gatura, subsistence farming is the key industry in this region. And it seems to be the key occupation since Uhuru.

The greatest change is probably invisible; the road drained off the best brains and energy from this land.  A good road is therefore a necessary but not sufficient condition for growth.

The missing link is innovators, more land beyond subsistence and entrepreneurs to put these factors together.

The entrepreneurs from Murang'a might be rational, investing in Thika or Nairobi has higher returns. Going by the elegance of the new homes I saw in Murang'a, it seems some resources are returning home. Reverse brain drain or retirees going home?

I now hope to take a break from Murang’a (Metumi) till 2037. Buy me a drink of your choice, and I will explain why 2037.

If I return earlier, blame Gaturi, which is famous for occult sciences (urogi), though I hear Kaharati has become a competitor. Finally, give me a reason why I should visit your county, neck of the woods or hamlet, and I will be there.