Whistling Thorns: Where trees sing in the wind

By Crystal Okusa

When the opportunity to get away from the city centre to the peace and quiet of Kiserian came, I jumped at the chance of escaping the daily mad rush as well as the hustle and bustle of Nairobi.

As we headed towards Kiserian, the scorching sunrays that threatened to rip through the tilted car windows did nothing to discourage my friends and I from our adventure. Our hearts cooled at the prospect of enjoying a holiday at the Whistling Thorns.

Not given to local tourism, I felt like a visitor when we entered native Maasai land. Here, there is none of the official and sophistication style of dressing. The predominant style is the comfortable and less cumbersome lessos. I couldn’t help envying the sense of freedom of the Maasai.

Peace and quiet
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Along the Kiserian-Magadi highway, I marvelled at the magnificently built maisonettes and bungalows shielded behind high neat hedges.

A panoramic view of the Ngong Plains from the poolside at Whistling Thorns.

A signpost finally lets us know we had to come to the end of our long ride. As we drove through the compound, an air of privacy, peace and quiet welcomed us. There were a few cars in the parking lot, presumably other Nairobians escaping city madness for a quiet weekend.

Accommodation at Whistling Thorns is in guest cottages, leisure tents and camping sites, all at affordable prices. You can also carry a tent and pitch it up at a small fee.

Our agenda for the weekend was to relax so we opted for the luxurious tent. Since we had booked earlier, the porters were ready to usher us into our tents.

The last time I slept in one was years ago when I was a girl guide, and that one had been very basic. That the tents were eye catching is an understatement. They were beyond my wildest imaginations.

Romantic ambience

A small terrace with two wooden chairs and a table set the romantic ambience found inside the tent where a big bed, well cushioned with bright coloured covers, beckoned. There was also a short wooden cabinet with African robes inside.

At the back was a white tiled bathroom area, draped with a coloured cloth and installed with hot showers and a fitted toilet. No wonder they are called leisure tents. Beside the bed was a reading lamp with enough space to place books and magazines.

After sampling the delights of our luxurious tent, we took a walk in the evening and enjoyed the serene countryside and the cool breeze blowing directly from the Ngong Hills that swayed the trees to its rhythm. We took a moment to listen to the birds chirping away freely. Small light bells placed on the trees made tingling sounds in perfect unison with the wind, creating ‘whistling’ sounds.

The evening breeze caressed the skin with its fresh and unpolluted air. After watching a rare sunset scene, we walked back to the restaurant. Adequate space between tables gives guests the security of knowing that those seated at the next table cannot eavesdrop on your conversation.

Personalised service

Out in the open, tables are set under every shade and canopies made of wood. Whistling Thorns provides a quiet relaxing environment so no music is allowed.

The founder of Whistling Thorns, Marie Louise or Mrs Mike as she prefers to be called, joins us at our table. She explains that weekends are their busiest days as families use this time to steal away from the city for the quiet of Kiserian.

We wanted to eat within the vicinity of our luxurious tent so we placed our orders at the restaurant and headed to the tent. Waiters provide this personalised service, which is a plus for this hot spot. We passed a group of children playing a ball game next to their campsite. Their school had brought them here for a weekend of fun.

A few minutes later, a waitress brought our dinner and set it on the table outside the tent. Later, we retired to bed to sleep off the exhaustion of the long day.

We had been informed that the best time to watch the birds is at 6am before the sun comes up. Because we did not want to miss this sight, we struggled to get out of bed in good time. The weather was a bit chilly but the beautiful birds made it all worth it.

We then took a walk in the dew-infested grass hoping to catch a sight of gazelle or a giraffe. Sadly, it was not our lucky day. We enjoyed breakfast by the poolside and read our books under the shelter of trees.

If you are not a book person, there is a golf course to tee the morning away. Soccer lovers need not worry either. There is DStv to ensure you don’t miss out on your favourite matches.