I remember the first time I flew

"Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return." ? Leonardo da Vinci

I remember the first time I flew. It was in a rickety Cessna 206 Skywagon plane bound for the Mara. Not even the amazing scenery could hold my heart still as the four seater plane seemed powerless against the breath of Mother Nature who effortlessly blew about the contraption like a feather. Imagine a pebble in a sealed can being shaken-that is how I felt. Despite the circumstance, however, my ego that stretches to Timbuktu wouldn't allow me to show any signs of distress. Even as my palms built a cold clammy wet, I still acted macho and put on my confident poker face. This is the same matador face I put on to ease me through uncertain situations like when I was first presented with difficult dishes-artichokes, escargots, and sushi- to tackle; the same face I put on when as I drove onto the highway on the very first day I was behind a vehicle's steering wheel; and yes, the same face when The crush unexpectedly agreed to my advances.

These nostalgic thoughts were brought on by first time fliers aboard a twin-engine, medium range, turbo prop Bombardier dash 8 destined for Kisumu. It all started in the CBD where a busload of travellers were ambushed with a paid for flight in place of their bus ride. It's been said that Kenyans like freebies, but the skeptism displayed that afternoon did well to change that impression. To that point, I reckon that Kenyans discard their dignity only as a necessity. Hilarity ensued as several passenger outrightly asked for refunds and boarded the bus next on line sighting disregard for what they assumed to be a prank television show. Anyway, 11 lucky passengers, who bought the concept were airborne a few hours later as part of a campaign dubbed 'Flying a Bus' aimed at demystifying flying. They were also given a Sh500 voucher to purchase either food or drink on board of the aircraft with no top up required for their fare by air compared to what they had paid to go by bus.

For a very long time, flying was a preserve of the rich in sub-saharan Africa. Not anymore if budget airlines like our very own Jambo Jet among others can help it. This was the background that found this writer enjoying the flight costing a near-reach price of Sh3, 600 to a destination he had always dreamed of visiting. Jambojet's Chief Executive Officer Willem Hondius, who joined his staff in ensuring that the campaign was a success, explained that since the airline launched operations in April last year, the number of passengers has been gradually increasing.

"Jambo Jet now flies to seven destinations namely Nairobi, Mombasa, Kisumu, Eldoret, Malindi, Lamu and Ukunda. We have seen strong uptake of low cost flying in Kenya. It has flown over 500,000 passengers during the first year of operation. With the newly launched campaign, this number is set to grow as more Kenyans appreciate the benefits of low cost flying. Many Kenyans, however, are yet to appreciate how the low cost flying concept works. With this campaign, we are aiming to not only demystify flying, but also create better understanding of how lost cost flying works," said Hondius.

 "The value proposition of low cost flying is there for all to see. Flying cuts travel time especially when one plans their travel in advance which is what we are encouraging Kenyans to embrace so as to enjoy the thrill, affordability and convenience of flying," Hondius added.

It was nice interacting with first time fliers and relive one's own first time flying. Alex Amosing, for instance, was particularly hilarious as he recounted how only a 'hard' drink could calm his nerves when the craft ran into turbulence. For me, the affordable flight allowed me to access a part of our country that I had always longed to visit.

Kisumu's renowned hotel

It's hard painting a picture of what to expect of the lesser of Kenya's port cities. Even after my visit, it still is difficult to clearly paint one. Putting any historical prejudices aside, Kisumu appeared to me like that cool elder brother who remains unapologetically cool in spite of himself. Its warm humid weather caught me by surprise. Speaking of warmth; contrary to the street-sold stereotype that the Luo community are drawn to fist fights and stone-throwing, I was pleasantly surprised that everyone I met was incredibly kind, even to a fault.

 I had the pleasure, as recounted in a previous instalment of sampling the city both by day and night, tasting the famous Lwang'ni Fish, breezing at the Yatch Club, and walking with wild ungulates at the Impala Sanctuary. I also had the opportunity to go on an excursion, not to be confused with a boat ride, courtesy of Rudolph Mathias who manages one of Kisumu's most famous lodges-Kiboko Bay Resort located in the Dunga neighbourhood.

Kiboko Bay, situated ten minutes-drive from the city centre and 20 minutes-drive from the airport on an old quarry by the shores of Lake Victoria, opened to the public in December, 2004. It was formerly a recreational spot called Dunga Refreshments, Sunset beach before it was taken up by Nirmal and BeeLay Darbar who redesigned it to its current look. Kiboko Bay Resort has been consistently rated among the best Kisumu hotels, giving the discerning traveller the luxury of embracing the 'safari feel' of an African adventure in absolute comfort. The founders have succeeded in creating a beautiful spot, just a jogging distance from the high street, Impala Park and the Dunga Fishing Village.

The idyllic lakeside setting is also a perfect getaway for romantic trysts, or for overworked corporates to recharge their batteries. It is rather easy to succumb to the lures of their resident bartender shaking and stirring signature cocktails from their well-stocked bar that emphasises a nautical concept. If not that, then one of its nine permanent luxury raised chalet tents over which a traditional grass thatched roofing reflecting a distinct African feel is built on a raised wooden deck beneath the cool, comforting canopy of thatched roofs with expansive views of Kavirodo Bay and the distance Islands of Ndere and Moboko will win you over. Guests can order from the extensive a-la-carte menu and choose to dine formally in the resort's perfectly set Deco Restaurant exhibiting contemporary art on canvas by budding native artists or feast Al-Fresco overlooking the bay at the terrace or by the pool side.

I was also pleasantly surprised to learn that 106-roomed Vic Hotel located in Mega City mall, along Nairobi road in Kisumu where I put up on my first night shares owners with Kiboko Bay Resort.

Charming boat ride

Back to the highlight of the visit. The very eloquent freelance environmentalist Tom Mboya Adero (please say the whole name) took me out to the lake on a boat on what turned out to be a very informative expedition. Shared between the three countries of Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda, Lake Victoria is surprisingly seldom visited by tourists, despite being splendidly scenic, and historically famous. This is despite the fact that few inland waters measure up to Lake Victoria, which has a surface area of 68,800 sq km, of which Kenya claims only 3,785 sq km. My afternoon timing was not the best. My guide explained that the recommended expedition time is at daybreak when one's mind is fresher, the lake calmer, birds livelier, and with a better chance of catching the fishermen returning from their night vigil with their catch. The four hour long expedition took me to the fresh water mangrove forest through to the island and Nyamware canal into the rice fields.

 

We went past the famous Dunga Swamp whose international code is KE 037 Dunga Tako. Now, Dunga swamp is one of the 65 Important Bird Areas (IBAs) in Kenya. Located at the mouth of Tako River, about 10 km south of Kisumu town on the shores of Winam Gulf, Lake Victoria, it covers 247 acres. The swamp is predominantly comprised of Papyrus (Cyperus papyrus) which forms a distinctive habitat for papyrus specialist birds, including restricted range endemics such as the Globally Threatened Papyrus Yellow Warbler (Chloropeta gracilirostris) and the Near Threatened Papyrus Gonolek (Linarius mufumbiri). Importantly, the swamp provides ecosystem services that include filtering sediments, which purifies the water before it enters Lake Victoria.

It controls flooding in the area; it is a major tourist attraction site, and it is also a fish land site where fish trading and other small scale businesses have thrived. Dunga is one of the best places in Kenya to see the traditional ssese canoes used to operate the local passenger service on the lake, also for fishing being carved. Painted in bright colours, often depicting a favourite football team, the long and narrow boats with a large outboard motor are known locally as 'Yie' , while those with sails are known as 'Yie nange'.

 

The boat also went past numerous fishing villages where residents in their bathing suits became a common sight. I would learn what I found odd, bathing of the sexes and children at close proximity to each other, had a compact explanation. Turns out that the practice is to ensure safety of the women and children especially considering the healthy hippo population whose males consistently beef.

 

Speaking of beasts, I also picked up that crocodile population was negligible compared to neighbouring Uganda waters where a croc called Osama, reputedly one of the world's most prolific man-eaters, gained infamy for devouring at least 83 humans. Three theories, according to my guides, attempt to explain this phenomenon. One was that the reptiles were almost wiped out at one point when a British lady was attacked and killed by a man-eating croc. The second had something to do with the unprecedented rise of Lake Victoria water levels in 1961-64 that somehow washed away the crocs. The last is a result of mass massacre of Nile crocodile for their skins exported to make luxury leather goods market including shoes, handbags and belts, especially to Japan, Italy and France.

Unfortunately, human interference is evident in this paradise that hosts over 400 species of birds. Outcasts who dominate the fishing industry living dorm style are said to indiscriminately slash down the trees out of anger and belief in witchcraft hoping to better their fishing fortunes. It is also sad to note that fish have lost breeding grounds to the hyacinth and hippo grass; only the less savoury cat and lung fish, and untrue eels locally referred to as ‘anwela angwela’ seem to thrive. This is unlike my guide's recollection of a time when the population was so stable that St Peter's fish would inadvertently toss themselves into fishermen's boats. Still, sightings of Sitatunga Antelope, freshwater prawns, monitor lizards whose skin makes the Ohangla Drum, and an enchanting setting sun made for a thrilling trip.

I look forward to exploring parts that I could not fit into my itinerary; top of which include a visit to the Kisumu Museum and excursion to the numerous islands like Mfangano Island that dot the lake. Mfangano is especially dear being the home to the 1,000-year-old rock paintings of the Batwa people that are believed to have been used later by the local Suba tribe. Similar paintings have been recorded in Congo, Zambia, Gabon and other sites by the Trust for African Rock Art. The paleontology work of Louis and Mary Leakey is evident on Rusinga Island, which is untainted, globally-recognized site for primate and other fossils.