Spa treatments at a serene getaway in Rusinga

Joe Ombuor and Caroline Nyanga

The role of usher into and out of Rusinga Island Lodge is played not by smiling beauties or uniformed orderlies, but by the stick-shaped, light-winged, darting dragonflies. They appear from nowhere to hover and skim ahead of visitors as though dutifully leading the way, yet neither tame nor trained to do so. And what a fascinating first impression that is!

If you think that is entrancing then what awaits you at the hotel proper on the shores of Lake Victoria is simply enrapturing. Birds break into song with an abrupt spontaneity as though obeying unspoken orders from somewhere.

A beautifully lit pier on Rusinga Island Lodge.

The bird world (there are over 369 species on Rusinga) from the noisy weaver birds to the stately fig eagles to tiny iridescent sunbirds and arrow fast king fishers lilt, chirrup, tweet, coo, shriek and even cough and whistle in a melody that surpasses any music extravaganza one can think of.

What the visitor gets is a symphony of sorts, so wild yet so natural. It is the kind of welcome that one cannot forget in a hurry.

But the unmatched charm does not end there. Over the azure lake, vast flocks of cormorants –– their wings out spanned to catch the sun’s rays, are a joy to behold in the early mornings or late afternoons. Magnificent fish eagles soar overhead to the fright of the light hearted, and swoop low searching the shallow waters for fish.

Velvet lawns

A brief boat ride from the lodge’s guano-littered private quay takes you to the bird islands close by that are also home to spotted necked otters and huge prehistoric looking monitor lizards. It is an experience that paints the impression of striding into pre-history.

The lodge and its precincts are home to graceful genet cats that are active mainly by night. From the lobbies of their hotel rooms, guests can see blunt headed, cavernous nosed hippopotamuses grazing peacefully on the lawns.

For those who love plants, the hotel and its manicured velvet lawns that spread to the water’s edge is home to rich flora that include flowers, shrubs, twigs and trees, both indigenous and exotic.

Actually, the lodge is a botanical garden of sorts where bees, butterflies, moths, cicadas, crickets and other attractive members of the insect kingdom have found a haven. Of special significance is a robust fig tree, said to be over 300 years old, standing majestically on the verdant compound.

Archaeologist Dr Louis Leakey and his wife, Mary pitched tent under this very tree in 1948 when the couple discovered proconsul Heseloni, reputed as man’s earliest ancestor. Accommodation is spectacular, from architecture where cottages are distinctive by their high pointed grass thatched roofs to hospitality. The rooms comprise six self-contained cottages plus a family outfit with a twin room and an inter-connecting door.

All have spacious verandas overlooking the sparkling waters of the lake. Bedrooms, all illuminated with bright, cool colours that relax the nerves, are double with king-size or twin with queen-size beds complete with a living and dressing area. Oversize, en suite bathrooms have double basins and showers.

Touch therapies

The finely decorated rooms are air conditioned to enhance the comfort in the hot environment. Unlike most hotels with glass windows, Rusinga Island Lodge has special nets for windows that allow in draughts of air.

Apart from the swimming pool modelled on the map off the island, the lodge boasts a Jacuzzi, a spa and a well-stocked souvenir shop replete with Kenya’s best-known antiques.

The Rusinga spa offers a variety of touch therapies. It comprises two treatment areas with private gardens, whirlpool, al fresco shower and washrooms. Treatments offered include aromatherapy massage, Indian head massage, spa manicures and pedicures.

A two and-a-half hour African treatment involves revitalising a guest’s spirits with the stimulating qualities of Kenya’s finest coffee beans. The guest enjoys an invigorating coffee scrub followed by cocooning in a coffee wrap. Another treatment lasting the same time is African elegance where a guest is treated to highland tea scrub followed by a full body massage with tea body conditioner.

The romantically named African sunset treatment is a one and a quarter hour spa characterised by a relaxed body scrub with passion fruit seeds and delicate essential oils capped with a luxurious moisturising body wrap.

The aptly named Kenya Caress is where the body is conditioned and nourished with shea butter, avocado, baobab, macadamia, coconut oils and lemongrass.

The 30-minute Indian head and neck massage relieves aches and general pains, alleviating stress and rebalancing the energy flow. Other spas include African Savannah and spa manicure and pedicure.

The lodge is perhaps the only one in the country with its own airstrip where guests land and leisurely walk into the facility.

According to the locals, Rusinga elders donated the land on which the airstrip runs to provide their illustrious son, the late Tom Mboya, a landing base at home. The Mboya ancestral home where his remains are buried is a few hundred metres away from the lodge.

Among the lodge’s guests are tourists visiting the Tom Mboya mausoleum from all over the world. Business people, couples, local and international tourists looking for comfort and adventure away from the cacophony and noise of many tourist destinations may want to try this serene getaway.