The little pearl in the world

A fortnight ago, I finally got acquainted with the ‘new’ Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) train or Madaraka Experience. This was just before it celebrated its one-year anniversary.

Stepping into the air-conditioned coaches, I was slightly miffed by the ‘face-me’ style of non-reclining seats and sharing of tables in the Economy Class cabins.

A peek into the First Class compartments revealed a more plush area with forward-facing seats. Every Economy Class coach carried at least 100 passengers but has one toilet. I would therefore recommend that you use the restroom at the station before getting onto the train.

I arrived at the Voi station where I was to make my way to H12 Kipalo Hills lodge located in Mbulia Group Ranch Conservancy. The conservancy neighbours the Eastern boundary of Tsavo East National park and adjoins the southern side of the Upper Tsavo West segment.

Just like the most valuable pearls that occur spontaneously in the wild, H12 Kipalo Hills lodge juts shyly from the side of the Mbulia Hills, after which the conservancy is named. As is with most game lodges in Kenya, makuti is the choice roofing material with natural wood being the preferred material for furniture. Nothing, however, is common about this lodge with an odd name.

The mess that doubles up as a guest lounge, bar, restaurant and reception area is nothing short of an airy monstrous structure touching both the sky and ground in tandem. Walking into the building, you notice the beautiful lounge seats carved from the stone on which the structure stands. Throw cushions and beanbags complete the minimalist decor.

Tents with character

After, checking in, I was shown to my accommodation, one of the eight tents on the landscape. Each tent is in its own private space surrounded by bush and rock and have a stunning view of Mt Kilimanjaro, the distinctive Ngulia Hills or the sprawling Tsavo.

My tent is like a page out of the jungle book. The interior reflects the lime green and ash grey characteristic of the native plants of the Tsavo tinged with some dark red splashes, the distinct colour of the local soil. Wanting a quick refresh before hitting the sack, I stepped into the little wash area. Showers here are an exciting experience as hot water is released from overhead bush-buckets. Makes my home showers a little dull in contrast.

Day 2

I woke up to a day of exploration; game drives in the Tsavo West and East National Parks. This took all day and party trudged back to the lodge ready for some wild fun.

Evenings at the lodge are what sundowners are made for. As we enjoyed some gin and tonic amid drunken conversations, we watched the burst of colours in the night sky as the sun set over Mt Kilimanjaro. The sight is what I imagine a photographer’s dream is made of.

We later enjoyed some delicious fare, all locally grown food with an array of wines on offer. Usually, meals are served to the guests on a central table but for those who want an intimate romantic experience, they can be served at select private spots.

As I got ready for a good night’s sleep, it was easy to see why this place is favoured by couples out for some quiet restorative time. It has scenic sights, calming nature, enough adventure for the thrill-seekers and more privacy than you could ever need. I will definitely be back.