Sicily cuisine comes to Kenya

SarovaPanafric’s Food and Beverages manager Shailender Singh, Chef Angelo Pumilia and Sicilian wine master AlessioPlaneta.[PHOTOS: PETER MUIRURI/STANDARD]

By Peter Muiruri

Culinary tourism is slowly taking root in Kenya going by the number of dining experts visiting the city.

Last Saturday, Sicilian wine master Alessio Planeta and Chef Angelo Pumilia took guests at Sarova Panafric through an exquisite wine pairing session and a culinary trip through Sicily. The five-course menu saw guests learn how to pair each dish with an appropriate wine.

A starter combination of langoustine green salad and almond mayonnaise went well with Planeta Alastra. Next on the table was popular Italian meal of spaghetti tomato, eggplant and sweet basil and washed down with Planeta Rose.

Food and wine matching

The third course consisted of baked Tilapia Bacoloa and potato rossetti, which went well with the heavier Cerasuolo Di Vittoria. With its unmistakable aroma, this wine is versatile and is ideal with soups, broiled shellfish, lamb and medium-aged cheeses.

The soft herb-crusted roast lamb rack ‘caponata’ was well combined with the stronger Sito Dell’ulmo Merlot. The ruby red wine has a velvety, lingering taste on the palate. Fruit flavours, tannins and a light acidity are in harmonious balance. No need to worry as the servings were light enough for the stomach to handle.

But what, you may ask, is the importance of matching a particular type of food with a wine?

“This is important for those who want to enjoy their meal and not just eat. As a general rule of combination, fish and similar sea foods should be served with white wines while meats should be paired with red wines,” states Planeta, the owner and manager of Planeta winery in Sicily.

The Planeta family has a long history, with wine having cultivated vineyards since the 1600s. In the mid 1980s, Alessio together with his cousin Francesca and brother Santi began the painstaking journey of matching the diverse types of Sicilian soils with both indigenous and international grape varieties.

As an example, the black lava sands on the northern slopes of the Mt Etna are conducive to the cultivation of white Carricante grape red Nerello Mascalese variety. The Sambuca Di Sicilia estate sits on 94 hectares and is hemmed in by a 17th Century farmhouse, the ruins of an Arab castle, Lake Arancio and a mountain range. Here, the Planeta family produces the Chardonnay, Cometa and the new red wine Plumbago or Nero d’Avola.

This marriage of grapes to soils has over the years produced different varieties of wines – 17 in total from five wineries — that are now being exported to 75 countries.

Planeta says Kenya is an ideal place to have the wine pairing sessions due to its geographical location and a melting pot of international cultures.

“Kenya has an ocean that produces fresh fish on a daily basis, making for good wine combination. In addition, Kenyans are also well travelled and have experienced good dining in other countries. They know what food and wine pairing is all about. It is time they get to taste the same on home ground,” Planeta says.

Food seminars

Sicily lies in mid-Mediterranean and has over the years played host to numerous cultures, including Arabian, Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans.

On his part, Angelo Pumilia, the Executive Chef at La Foresteria has a wide range of culinary experience having worked in Russia and Spain. He has held food seminars in, Osaka, Nagoya, and Fukuoka in Japan. Currently, he conducts cooking courses, teaching the recipes of the Planeta family and the secrets of traditional Sicilian cuisine, from Sicilian-style pasta with sardines to the ‘real’ caponata, the superb timbale in Ricotta cheese crust to scabbardfish with herbs.

Culinary maestros

“As you know, Italian food is simple. Most meals need less than 10 ingredients. That ensures that they retain the original flavour, which is vital when pairing it with the right wine,” says Angelo.

And do these two culinary maestros ever tired of preparing food and pairing it with wine? “Never,” they say. “Our mothers and grandmothers have to come up with two recipes every day and they never get tired. Why should we?” asserts Alessio.

Well, it’s time to clear the table with fresh tropical fruits and a glass of Almond Parfait.