No dull moments in Tsavo

Kenya has wild places, and then it has Tsavo. For beginners, Tsavo is the largest conservation area in Kenya. The wildlife here, more than anywhere else in Kenya, has remained secluded for eons and has little tolerance for rude intrusion. If your history lessons serve you right, you might recall that it was in Tsavo that the construction of the original railway line by the British was abruptly halted by a pair of lions. The two brutes saw Indian workers as easy meal, taking whomever they wanted, whenever they wanted. Be warned, the remnants of the famous man-eaters of Tsavo still roam these vast plains

Let the wild be

Having visited Tsavo twice in the last three years, it seems as if there could be no more surprises. But trust the mighty Tsavo to throw a surprise or two any moment. I wrote here how I was once marooned in Tsavo after my small car broke the drive shaft. There is nothing funny in being stuck in the middle of nowhere with no help in sight. Earlier that day, a nursing Jumbo thought I had come too close for comfort and tried to charge at me. Always keep your distance if you spot any wild animal with a baby, or else, that might be the last thing you see. Still, Tsavo provides the perfect theatre for anyone hoping to soak in the immense beauty of Kenya’s vaunted nature.

Recently, we once again traversed the mighty Tsavo on our way to Malindi. Few people know that the park provides an easy route to Kenya’s north coast through the Sala Gate exit. But it can be a treacherous drive. For the umpteenth time, Julius, our driver calmed our nerves on the Sunday morning before leaving the main gate near Voi. “This is going to be a long drive and much of the route will be dusty. Just take in the sights and sounds of Tsavo and all will be okay.” Considering that some areas of the park we no go zones due to bandits some years back, we needed such assurances.

For the keen observer, eye-catching vistas abound in Tsavo. From Lugard falls to picturesque lava flows to scenic hills, Tsavo has it all. Zebras crisscrossed the dusty roads at will as birds darted along with little care on earth. There was the secretary bird with the tuft feathers on the head that mimic the secretary’s pen in a bygone era. Killing snakes and other creeping creatures is her specialty. The kori bustards, the heaviest flying birds in Africa - one weighs about 19 kg, scoured the grounds for the occasional treat of a mouse. We even spotted the resplendent lilac breasted roller, Kenya’s national bird. Thought you should know.

Gentle giants

But Tsavo is known for one creature that has come to symbolise an African safari. For millennials, elephants roamed the plains here, soaking themselves in the red mud and dust hence their pronounced earthly colour. While you can spot the Jumbos on a game drive, there is perhaps no better place to watch the mighty creatures than at Voi Wildlife Lodge, located a few minutes’ drive from the main park entrance.

The lodge that blends in well with surrounding country is built next to a natural waterhole that attracts elephants like moth to the fire. On the afternoon of our arrival here, all we did was sit on the verandah next to the bar and dining area and observe the antics of the gentle giants. And from all directions they came until the waterhole became one large meeting point of elephants. Mothers came with newborns who were constantly teased by juveniles. Older bulls pushed uninvited buffaloes effortlessly out of the waterhole. A short electric barrier is all that separated us from the heaving mass of elephants. Fortunately, the design of the lodge allows one to watch the animals from the comforts of the spacious and well decorated rooms since all rooms are built facing the waterhole. I had only one night here but was enough to create long lasting memories. So forget the horror stories of being lost in Tsavo or the long drives within the park, there are no dull moments here.