I visited Taita Taveta for the first time six years ago. I was a new father eager to show my 11-month old son some wild ways. At first glance, I did not make much of the area. First, the Voi-Taveta road was only rivaled by the lunar landscape. There were various detours as rehabilitation got underway. Next, the January heat had created a windswept landscape no budding tourist could fathom.