The Mara itinerary: Bed, Bush and Beyond

By Allan Olingo

Safari to me isn't only about rediscovering the rugged glamour and extravagance of the African wildlife, but also exploring the wild in different ways apart from the much-acclaimed game drive.

 On my recent excursion to the wild of the Mara, I had the chance to explore all the fun areas of the Maasai Mara and encounter the forgotten heroes of the Mara — the Maasai. Many safaris to the Mara are focused on the game viewing but there are a lot of ‘must dos’ that make the Mara exotic and ones stay memorable.

The Mara provides an opportunity to interact with the Maasai. [PHOTOS: TABITHA OTWORI /STANDARD]

Nature walk

When in the Mara, take a nature walk early in the morning with an experienced Maasai guide. They will blow you away with tales  about animals, show you how to study the footprints of these animals and amaze you with their vast knowledge of this wildlife. Our guide Nalerian, made through with us from the Ol Moran Tented camp, where we were staying through the nature trail that cuts across the animals watering hole.

We walked on the plains and around the river that surrounds the Ol Moran Tented Camp. At one point, he told us a leopard must have been there some hours ago, because of the freshness in its droppings.

To walk with this Maasai guide in the African bush of rolling hills dotted with acacias, made famous by endless wildlife documentaries, to the rivers and valleys where the vegetation can be very green and lush was a memorable experience.

Bird watching

If you are passionate about birds, Maasai Mara is the place for you. I realised that most of these warm Maasai guides are also bird specialists too. They will be more than happy to help you identify new species among the 500 plus that live in the Mara. It was amazing how, on our morning nature walk, Nalerian could recognise these beautiful creatures by their calls and songs as well as by their plumage.

Safaris

Travel to the Mara will be incomplete without a guided safari for game viewing. It is more thrilling in an open Landrover. We encountered hair raising moments with a herd of elephants, which really were not happy with out intrusion and experienced the intimacy of hanging around a family of well fed lions taking a morning bask under a huge oak tree.

Wildlife is most active early in the morning and in the late afternoon and this, it was explained to us was the magic moment of a safari. One would think that the animals are trained to pose for photographs, with the otherwise elusive leopard occasionally changing positions to give the perfect shots.

We explored the special, secluded areas in the Mara, the famous Mara River, famed for the spectacular wildebeast migration and even the hippo corner.

It was a sight to marvel at, when we spotted the Maasai herdsmen including young boys, armed only with a spear, bow and arrows, guarding their herds of cattle in the midst of a herd of buffaloes.

Bush dinner

Deep in the plains but within the precincts of our lodge, Ol Moran tented camp, and by the animal’s watering hole, was our dinner spot!

It is in these watering holes that elephants, bushbucks, baboons and impalas all come to drink. It was thrilling, exciting and scary all at once. Singing and dancing with the Maasai’s by a huge bonfire right in the middle of “nowhere”, surrounded on all sides by life and death, adds to the thrill.

Tented lodges

They may be less comfortable than permanent camps and lodges as one has to trade off a permanent roof, tiled bathroom, and swimming pool for the more remote and isolated raw tent experience.

But this gets you the best view of the vast array of wildlife, especially in the morning. The night is a goose-bump  experience with wild animals grazing, growling or even roaring by your tent!

Maasai lifestyle

Not only are the locals very friendly, but they also immerse you in their activities. At the end of my visit, I was given a shuka as gift to remember them by when I go back to the big city.

Beautiful, proud and colorfully dressed, the Maasai’s are still very attuned to their traditional way of life, always witty and genial. You will be surprised by their curiosity and they will ask you a lot of questions.