Fabled lake in trouble

By Harold Ayodo

A trip along the Nairobi-Nakuru highway to Elementaita is spotted with stunning viewpoints overlooking the Great Rift Valley.

I was part of a team that joined officers from the United Nations Environment Programme (Unep) and Safaricom on a tree-planting mission in Elementaita and part of my excitement of this trip was knowing I would finally get to see the hot springs that are adjacent to Lake Elementaita as they are famous tourist attractions in Rift Valley province.

Our main stop was Pinklakeman’s Eco-Lodge adjacent to Lake Elementaita. The eco-lodge is a relatively new establishment nestled within the forest that drapes the South-East shore of the lake.

The dramatic wooden lodge is set in manicured lawns and gardens and offers accommodation in three rustic one-bedroom self-contained cottages and Maasai manyattas that are powered by solar and generator.

Inside the cottages I was struck by the comfortable furnishings done in natural materials. Art pieces by local artists beautify the walls.

The cottages are set on red cedar decks with front-row views of the Lake Elementaita. A little sandy beach whose backdrop is a pink mosaic of thousands of flamingos is a favourite among guests. For those who enjoy the outdoor, camping facilities shaded by golden acacias are available on the grounds.

A stroll around the lodge revealed luxurious outdoor toilets and showers with hot running water, a quirky bar, cool sitting areas, outdoor picnic tables and chairs well placed in nooks around the grounds.

During the day, a chorus of birds entertains guests while owls and night birds call out to their mates under the moonlight.

Retreat paradise

We arrived at Pinklakeman at 11.30am and set off the mission, which was to plant 5,000 seedlings. By the time lunch arrived, we were infused with energy and contentment from knowing we were doing a good thing.

After a hearty meal of roasted goat meat and chicken served under acacia trees, we were eager to sample other attractive sites around the lodge. The most magical moment was watching the flamingos and pelicans that moved in droves even as assorted birds chirped above us on the trees.

The rosy pink flamingos stand up 150cm high to catch a clear view of small fishes and other water prey.

The seasoned bird watchers in our company explained that flamingos love the lake because of it favourable ecology. It is among the few soda lakes with abundant algae, insect larvae and crustaceans, making it a haven for water birds. We watched some of the 400 birds species recorded in the Lake Nakuru–Lake Elementaita basin as they flew between the acacia trees.

Young boys make money from selling flamingo feathers at Sh50 each. We were hesitant to buy the feathers from the lads.

Later, we strolled from Pinklakeman’s eco-lodge to the hot springs or maji moto (hot water). Eager for a feel of the warm spring water, men changed into boxer shorts while women donned swimming costumes. For the next 30 minutes, the entourage enjoyed dips in the massaging hot spring pool. If it wasn’t for the rain, I doubt they would have left the pool.

Locals believe the hot springs, which are in two adjacent pools, are Godsend from the nearby Kariandusi Hills.

Tourists pack the area especially on weekends to get a feel of the magical waters that the locals believe possess medicinal effects that eliminate rashes and skin diseases. Some Maasai even believe that waters on the southern end of the lake have the cure for HIV and Aids. The number of flamingos has over the past few decades decreased from over a million to below 500,000 because of increased human activity.

Receding water levels

The colonial government is also said to have introduced tilapia into the lake from Lake Magadi in 1962, thus changing the ecology as the fish attracted many fish-eating birds that also fed on flamingo eggs and chicks, forcing some to migrate to Lake Natron in Tanzania.

Tourist activity would be enhanced along Lake Elementaita if the receding water levels are contained. On this day, we walked more than 800 metres from the former shoreline but were still far from the waters. We wondered if the cluster of flamingos in the distance could comprehend what was happening to their habitat.

A tour of Lake Elementaita via the Nairobi-Naivasha highway is never complete without stopping at Soko Mjinga in Lari to buy groceries from the women.

The market, which borders Rift Valley and Central (Kiambu) Provinces, is famous for its fresh, juicy yet fairly priced fruits and vegetables.