Memories from Ukerewe Island

By Mangoa MosotaHundreds of boulders cover swathes of the area on both low and high points of the island, making the crystalline rocks strikingly scenic.Moving closer inward we found women pounding and grinding cassava roots to make supple flour. Other tubers lay spread on the boulders to dry. The flour is used to make ugali the staple food for Ukerewe Island residents.Fishermen’s vidukus along Chifule beach. [PHOTOS: Mangoa Mosota/Standard]Welcome to the largest inland island in Africa, which together with Ukara Island, about 15km away, form a district in neighbouring Tanzania. Thousands of mango trees, as old as 100 years old, embrace the rock while orange trees line the murram roads. The island is renowned for its gigantic and sweet mango fruits transported to several parts of Tanzania and Kenya through Sirare border.Peasant farmer Everest Kamando, 72, proudly owns ten mango trees in his compound and says the trees are older than him."They are the same size as they were when I was born. They must be over 100 years," says Kamando.The island arguably produces the highest amount of mangoes and oranges in East Africa. The diverse trees luxuriantly grow without threat of residents cutting them down. Environmental conservation is taken seriously as there is minimal deforestation."A local committee of elders oversees the management of the environment. If a local wishes to cut down a tree he/she must first seek authorisation from them," says Kamando.Superstitious After a 45-minute journey on a ferry from Ka-Moris Beach in Rorya District, one is welcomed to the island with an anti-HIV/Aids poster written in Swahili. There are several modern hotels in the town including Holiday, Labima, Monarch and Waridi.Ukara Island, about 15km away, is similar to Ukerewe in many ways. Not only do they form one district, but also the islands are steeped in long-held superstition. Visitors use ferry services to the mainland.My guide, Charles Juma, says he would rather crash a goat than a cat while driving in the area."Hapa bwana ukimuua paka utaona mazingaumbwe (If you kill a cat you will be in trouble)", he says. Cats here are held in awe and are associated with witchcraft. Crime is unheard of and residents live in no fear. Reuben Nkolozi, a resident of Ukara, says a mysterious tree in the area and two stones talk when prodded by elders who have to be paid to do so.Along Chifule beach, over 300 fishermen live in small, temporary scenic huts called viduku. They are made from elephant grass and have no walls and doors. The fishermen’s clothes are dried atop the viduku.A fisherman, Maungo Matagi, 62, reveals that Bunjereba, a site that is less than 20 metres from the lake, is mystical.Its manicured lawn surrounded by a swamp is residence to a large snake known as bunjereba, which shows its body but never its head. He continues: "We carry elaborate rituals yearly at this place. A goat is slaughtered and men, women and children dance as they feast." This is believed to increase their catch, while the event keeps crocodiles and hippos away. On the picturesque grassland are mystical gullies about 25 metres deep, 100 metres long and 30 metres wide. Life at Ukerewe is not expensive; we paid only Sh230 for a kilo of roast meat and ugali.

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