City on the fast lane

By Hans van Schooneveld Mombasa and Malindi are popular destinations for visitors from Nairobi heading to the Coast. They will be seen enjoying the famous beaches and thronging entertainment spots.Visitors from Nairobi will also be seen chatting animatedly on their phones, a habit they can’t seem to shake. And with their permanent rush, they stand out like sore thumbs in the face of the slow Coastal lifestyle.They are seen having a good time in the hot and humid Mombasa raha, but in their hands are chilled alcoholic drinks.So while everyone’s mind dashes to Mombasa whenever they think of holidays, I decided to travel from Malindi to Nairobi on a short break. I wanted to experience first hand the hustle and bustle of a typical Nairobian.There are many buses serving the Malindi-Nairobi route and with an early booking you can a sit right behind the driver. The whole trip takes about ten or eleven hours from Malindi and nine hours from Mombasa and cost Sh1,000. Most buses leave early in the morning or late in the evening. Very hospitableWe set off early in the morning. The scenery was beautiful, almost like an additional free excursion. There is always something to catch the eye especially now as everything green thanks to the rains.After three hours, we arrived at Voi, which seems to be expanding continuously, and then on to Mtito Andei where we had a 30-minute lunch break. Not a fan of eating when travelling, I asked a young man in one of the eating joints for a half-plate of chips. He replied that they only sell full-plates. Seeing my disappointment, he gave me a half plate for free! It confirms again that Kenyans are, indeed, very hospitable.Hawkers sell honey along the Mombasa-Nairobi highway.Five hours later we arrived at the Jomo Kenyatta Airport junction. Here, I was shocked at the traffic jam. Vehicles were moving at a snail’s pace and matatus were literally driving on the pavement. This confirmed that we had truly arrived in Nairobi, the big city.Reasonable priceNot everybody has friends or relatives in Nairobi, hence for many, hotels are an option. A better option, however, is to stay at a Bed and Breakfast and this is not a commercial enterprise. People who have an extra room and like to host guests can make an extra coin this way. Some friends recommended one for me in South C owned by Elphas Navaisha and it turned out to be just perfect for me.I alighted at Bellevue Cinema next to Oil Libya on Mombasa Road where my host came for me. The room was clean and spacious, fitted with a private toilet and hot shower.I paid Sh3,500 for a single room inclusive of breakfast, which I found quite reasonable. The benefit of staying in a private home is that you get to know many people. In my case with Navaisha, we had long interesting and lively discussions in the evenings.During my brief stay, I was also lucky to be invited to a birthday party where I realised that Nairobians have no sense of time. Though the party was to start at 6:30pm, people turned up without even an apology. The host never appeared bothered. For me it was yet another lesson.Over the next few days we went clubbing and met many more friends. I was home far away from home. To help me move around the city, I hired a taxi that cost me Sh3,500 a day. This was a good deal and Samuel my driver knew all the shortcuts in the city.One thing that bothered was the enormous waste of time and energy Nairobians suffer through traffic jams. I was made to understand that many never get to make it in time for important appointments.Personally, I had to cancel some appointments, thanks to the city’s crazy jams. I came to learn that many people leave home sometimes as early as 5:30am to be in the office in time. In the evening, many are forced to stay put in the office or entertainment spots until the jam has eased. What a stress!Negative energyNo wonder whenever Nairobians get a few days off, they rush to the Coast.Like many others I opted occasionally to walk to the CBD. I got a chance to visit the Memorial Park on Haile Selassie Avenue and I sensed a lot of negative energy hovering around there. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to visit the Museum, but I promised to do so the next time I’m around.Another thing I noticed was the way everyone was busy on their phones. I wonder what they did before the phones arrived.Nairobi has so many coffee outlets that are great for meeting friends. The most convenient place for me was Java at the Sarit Centre. In fact it became my temporary office. They have big, nay huge coffee mugs of strong beverage served by relatively young, energetic and friendly workers. And they never seem bothered if one has is working on his laptop or not.While a visit to the city can be intimidating for any local Joe, it also has interesting sites and places that can leave lasting memories. The National Museum, Nairobi National Park or Daphne Sheldricks orphanage might just be starting points.It’s a well-known fact that Nairobians work hard and play harder. And sure enough if you see them in nightclubs, you might not think they are the same guys who were lamenting hours before in the traffic jam.Night lifeOne night I was invited to an Ethiopian restaurant by a friend who promised me a different experience and for sure it was. The location is in a kind of garden and is very beautifully done. The service and food was interesting, a first time experience for me.After dinner, we set off for Westlands to see what this side of town had to offer. It seems to me that Nairobi is fast becoming a carbon copy of New York in the United States. The place never seems to sleep.Looking from Black Diamond’s terrace down at Mpaka Street, I could not believe my eyes that at 4am there was no parking space available. The following day, I invited some friends for lunch. Later we set off for Brew Bistro and Lounge on Ngong Road. This was another special experience. It is smart with beautiful dÈcor and the presentation of food is good. I felt I was in a Michelin Star Restaurant, (a global chain of restaurants), but with affordable prices. It’s just the place to bring your loved one. How unfortunate I was here alone. On another night, I was invited to have drinks at Gypsies in Westlands and found it kind of unreal, with many expatriates present. It was packed with handsome and beautiful Kenyans dressed to kill. I wasn’t sure who was the target.The guys were more smartly dressed and looked an ounce slimmer than their female counterparts. The chubby women found comfort in their accentuated tight tops and equally tight trousers.This nightlife must be responsible for many people dozing off in public vehicles. All said and done, Nairobi is a wonderful place to be in. The people are nice and fun loving. And as I bid farewell to the City in the Sun and headed back to Malindi, I found myself replaying some of the best moments of the past days.

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