Breathtaking view of Suba from a lighthouse

By Winsley Masese

The voyage to Safari Village in Rusinga Island in Lake Victoria begins with catching a ferry shaped like a clock at Luanda Kotieno. I hesitate to enter as https://cdn.standardmedia.co.ke/images of how, when I was a child, I nearly drowned while swimming in a pond, flash in my mind. But I master enough courage and join other passengers.

The main entrance to the resort.

The picturesque view of the numerous peaked mountains keep my eyes fixated but when the sound of a large wave hit the ferry, I was jolted back to reality. Fear gripped me although the water was not as frightening as before.

The famous Rusinga Island mystically appears from a distance and seems to roar like a lion. To the far end, Winam Gulf creates an idyllic yet scintillating vista. As we approach Mbita point, the seemingly floating Gembe Hills beckon.

The water hits the shoreline and rolls back rhythmically. The direction to Safari Village is easily located, thanks to the motorcyclist at the shore. At the gate, exotic trees sway as though with a smile. I clearly remember our escapades as young boys. On the other side of Lake Victoria, we used to collect wild fruits while watching over my grandfather’s cattle.

I recognise one tree called omokenene in my mother tongue. In Suba, where we are now, it is called obukenene. I pluck some of the wild fruits. Up above, birds fly chirping happily.

As I walk to Safari Village, I see Odd Bredo, the director, at one of the tree shades sipping a bottle of Tusker. I go over to greet him and, after exchanging pleasantries, I take a seat and order for a similar brand.

Captivating Scenery

From here, I get an even better view of the islands. Bredo points to distant islands Ringiti and Remba, which offer a surreal picture. For a perfect view of these islands, he leads the way to a lighthouse, which is a common feature in Norway used to direct ships.

Some of the cottages that enjoy a beach front.

"The lighthouse is a structure for guiding ships using sharp lights," he explains. "You see those twin islands?" he asks, pointing. I answer in the affirmative, covering my brow with my hand to shield my eyes from the sun.

"Towards the end of every year, the sun sets in the middle of the twins, offering rare beauty," Bredo enthuses.

Growing up in Norway, Bredo spent many summer holidays in a lighthouse, which his father rented. It became a boyhood dream to build his some day. Later, he became a civil engineer. He is the one who designed this particular lighthouse.

Inside the lighthouse is the honeymoon suite and, as the word suggests, it is the perfect place for the newly-wed. I keenly look at some of the pebbles used to decorate the house, which Bredo says were collected from the lake and other places.

His office is situated at the top of the lighthouse and is one place any person would love to work from. A striking view of Suba’s striking natural features is all laid out below.

I must admit that standing at the top as the wind blows against your frame may be a tad scary, but the captivating scenery of both the hills and the islands form a perfect distraction.

Besides the lighthouse suite, there are various huts thatched with papyrus reeds. They have local names like Balakawasi, Acacia, Mzungu, Luo and Kilimani, which are partitioned into Gembe, Gwassi and Kingo.

Each double room has its own bathroom and a private veranda overlooking the lake, offering a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere.

Safari Village is also a bird sanctuary.

"There are more than 161 bird species here, which add to the beauty of the place," Bredo explains.

The fish attract majority of the birds as it forms part of their diet. To ensure visitors and travellers have a better view of the birds, perching points have been created on the lake.

Nearby excursions

Bredo says the water is clean and fresh for those who want to swim. There are also boats for hire and visitors can ride to deep waters where hippos can be found. They come near the resort in the evenings.

Nearby excursions include a game drive to the fastidious Ruma National Park where one can view the last surviving group of Roan antelopes, as well as the Oribi.

A view of Safari Village and its environs from the lighthouse.

What cannot escape any visitor’s knowledge of history is that Rusinga is home to the late Tom Mboya, a charismatic politician who was assassinated in 1969.

Rusinga is also where Dr Mary Leakey discovered skull proconsul africanus (a primitive anthropoid ape), which explains the genesis of man from apes.

Fried fish, beef and chicken served with ugali and vegetables are the main delicacies on this island.

On my return journey, the gleaming rays of the setting sun cast shadows on the village, making it appear grandeur. One has the discretion to use the Kendu Bay Homa Bay Sori Road, though, as Bredo remarks, the poor road network has hindered the exploitation of tourism in the region.