At Nairobi's Muthurwa market, Mary Wanjiku wakes up before dawn to arrange tomatoes and onions at her wooden stall. By evening, she has paid a string of levies-market fees, security charges, and the "compliance" charges demanded by county askaris (officers).
What remains is barely enough to feed her family. "I sell to survive, but it feels like I work for the county," she says. Her lamentation is echoed across Kenya's informal markets, where traders and small business owners struggle under the weight of a tax system that leans heavily on the poor while letting the wealthy breathe easily.