Mogadishu's renewal: Where bombs once fell, skyscrapers rise

New apartments in Mogadishu, Somalia. [File, Standard] First-time visitors to Mogadishu are often shocked by the ruinous state of buildings that have withstood decades of war since President Siad Barre's government was toppled in 1991. These devastated structures, scattered across the city, lend Mogadishu an eerie atmosphere-one that can unsettle even the hardiest traveller. But that is the old Mogadishu. A new city is rising from the rubble like the proverbial phoenix. Sleek skyscrapers now stand defiantly against the skyline, while glitzy shopping malls line the capital's streets, interspersed with modern office blocks and elegant cafes. Where once hotel accommodation was uncertain, Mogadishu now boasts swanky apartments and even Airbnb options. Thanks to the relative peace restored in recent years, the city is in full revival mode. A drive along the city's main streets-Makka al-Mukarama and KM4-offers a striking contrast to Mogadishu's war-torn past. These once bombed-out zones are now hubs of reconstruction, alive with the hammering and welding of rehabilitation work. Out of the ruins have emerged state-of-the-art cafes, restaurants, and high-end apartments, many owned by Somalis returning from the diaspora-the very children of those who fled when the war broke out more than three decades ago. Just off Makka al-Mukarama, beside the Ali Jimale Mosque, stands Beyden Coffee House. Step inside and you're transported: the blistering street heat gives way to the cool hum of air conditioning, and you could easily be in Nairobi, London, or Dubai. Somalis, renowned globally for their rich tea and coffee culture, flock to Beyden-especially the younger generation, armed with laptops and smartphones, sipping coffee as they work, powered by the cafe's free Wi-Fi. Down the road at KM4, skyscrapers dot the skyline and malls buzz with activity. Here, one can buy the latest electronics or high-street fashion from around the world. To bolster security, the Somali Police Force (SPF) has established the Mobile Vehicle Check Point (MVCP) unit, led by Lieutenant Osman Omar Hussein. His team of 100 officers conducts random inspections of vehicles and motorbikes-hundreds of which weave through Mogadishu's streets daily. The checks are vital in preventing transportation of explosives or illegal arms. "We establish checkpoints for a maximum of 40 minutes to conduct thorough inspections of vehicles, tuktuks, and motorbikes," says Lt Hussein. "The goal is to keep Mogadishu safe." Trained in Djibouti and with nine years of service at SPF under his belt, Lt Hussein believes the random nature of the checks is crucial. "It creates an element of surprise for those with malicious intent-- those intending to harm others using Improvised Explosive Devices (IEDs). The checks help in nabbing illegal weapons used to harm others," he says. The MVCP unit is well-equipped, with vehicles, body armour, and critical tools to intercept threats before they materialise. "The 40 minutes time cap at each location is deliberate so that we don't overstay and become predictable," Lt Hussein says as they set police check along Makka al-Mukarama Road. His team, including both male and female officers, ensures searches are handled respectfully. On a normal day, officers spend at least 10 hours on the streets. On chaotic days, that stretches to 14. "We do this to secure our city and ensure everyone stepping outside feels safe," one MVCP officer says as they prepare to relocate to the next checkpoint. Near Mogadishu Airport sits the Peace Hotel, widely considered one of the safest accomodation in Somalia. Its proprietor, Bashir Osman, is capitalising on the current calm to expand his business into new territory. He is developing Maanya Resort and Marina Seafood, already producing 25 tonnes of fish per day, with ambitions to scale up to 150 tonnes. Bashir is also venturing to Jazeera Beach, about 20 minutes from the city along the road to Afgoye, where he has acquired a five-acre seafront property. There, he is building a hotel and seafood processing plant to create jobs for young Somalis. Somalia has one of Africa's longest coastlines-over 600 kilometres-granting it rich access to the Indian Ocean's marine bounty. "I see fishing as the next territory we need to conquer," Bashir says, lamenting that much of Somalia's tuna and other fish is currently harvested by foreign vessels to the detriment of local livelihoods. Now that Somalia is a member of the East African Community, he sees new markets. "Why should Kenyans eat imported Chinese fish when Somalia can supply them with fresh fish across the border?" he asks. Maanya Resort sits just a kilometre from the Turkish military base and the US embassy. Its clean, sandy beach offers an inviting retreat. "The biggest resource we have is the blue economy," Bashir says. "I want my fellow countrymen to hop into a tuktuk and come experience what we're building."

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