Crossing culinary boundaries

Shail Ender Singh, Group director, Food and Beverage Operations at Sarova Hotels

By Lydia Limbe

Who is Shailender Singh?

I am an outgoing person who loves to mingle. I also love cooking; it has been my passion since I was a child.

What was it like to win an award at the recent Chef’s Delight Awards?

It was a pleasant surprise; I was not even aware that I had been nominated.  I was told I got the Lifetime Achievement Award because of my work in the culinary industry in Kenya, as well as for mentoring young people.

Tell us about your work in Kenya.

I came to Kenya seven and a half years ago. One of the things I first noticed was that Kenya has a lot of fresh produce with an authentic taste. Also, as I travelled around the country, I saw that there was a mix of European, Indian and Arabic influences in the foods. At that time, there was also a debate on how best Kenya can strategically place itself in terms of international cuisine.

That was when Best of Kenya was born. As a chef at Sarova, I created dishes with the Kenyan palate in mind. They are easy to relate to, but also have a twist that gives one something to think about.

I am also keen on exposing chefs to the international experience.

What is the clients’ response to Best of Kenya?

We showcased it for the first time in Kenya at the Malaysian Food Fair. People really liked it, especially the polenta with char-roasted goat jazzed up with salsa. Encouraged by this response, I came back and discussed the new dishes with my colleagues to see how best we can maximise on this concept.

We have picked brand ambassadors who speak to clients about the food on the menu, to explain whether it has the Indian, Mzungu or Arabic influence. In addition, we have embarked on starting vegetable gardens so that we have fresh local produce.

How did you learn the art of food fusion?

I have travelled a lot; I have been to Europe, America, South East Asia and South Africa. I have always been fascinated by different ingredients and started experimenting with food combinations when I was a child. But my experience at the Maurya Sheraton took it to a higher level. There, I learnt to customise the fused food to suit the palate of the people — a bit of what they like and a bit of something new.

Who are the VIP’s you’ve served since you started being a chef?

When I came to Kenya, we started Kitchens of Sarova, which did many state functions. Other than that, I have served the Blairs, the Clintons and the Dalai Lama. In fact, when Sherry Blair came to Kenya, she recognised me from the last time I cooked for her in the United States. I have also served Zhu Rong Ji and Lee Peng. At one time, was the chef de mission on a private train for Indian royals.

What are you planning to do next?

While still in Kenya, I would like to bridge the gap between gourmet and local cooking using the same high quality foods but at an affordable price. I would also like to bring changes in the eating and drinking culture, and raise appreciation for wines, cocktails, and local cheese. I am also thinking of a cooking show that focuses on healthy recipes.

Why is it that after all these years of being a chef you have never cooked for your parents?

I love it when my mother cooks; she is very good at it. Her cooking conjures up memories of my childhood. Plus, at the end of a long day, I just want to settle down to the simple food I grew up with.

What has kept you interested in cookery for this long?

Chefs are like artists. You get instant gratification from the client; they either like what you have done or not. It is the adrenaline rush I experience when presenting the food to my client, the anxiety of what he or she will think, that has kept me in the kitchen all these years, and it will keep me there for many more years.

What is your advice to budding chefs?

Like food in its true form. Enjoy every moment while going up the ladder. Allow yourself to experiment.