The peace and quiet of Elementaita

People tend to dismiss Lake Elementaita as a tourist destination, but this beautiful vacation spot in the eastern limb of the Great Rift Valley has a tranquil and peaceful environment and offers a magical experience, writes ALLAN OLINGO

Among the wide range of travel destinations Kenya offers, Lake Elementaita is one of my favourite. From the safari lodges to top-notch hotels, bush camps and bush lodges, there is always something new to discover in this serene hideaway.

Inside Pelican Resort in Naivasha(Photo:Tabitha Otwori/Standard)

On a cold Saturday morning, upon the invitation of a friend, Richard Mwangi, I decided to head to Naivasha for a weekend getaway. I couldn’t wait to enjoy the tranquil waters of Lake Elementaita, the abundant birdlife and the scenic environment that offers a prefect distraction from the busy Nairobi lifestyle.

The two-hour drive from Nairobi to Elementaita along the newly carpeted highway is itself an adventure. Save for the minutes we spent at the various roadblocks set up for surveillance and security checks, the journey was incident free.

Even though I have driven through this highway many times, the view of the Great Rift Valley escarpment always brings back childhood memories and fears. What if this car should fall in there? I thought as I admired the stunning view of the escarpment.

On arrival at Elementaita, we checked in at the Pelican Resort. We were greeted by the sight of thousands of rosy pink flamingos in the distance as our car came to a halt at the parking. The view of the vast blue waters is dotted with pink and white spots of the birds playing in the water. To the naked eye, they looked like pink spots. Watching the flamingos and pelicans standing up 150cm high, one would think they are watching over their sister species of water birds.

Lake Elementaita is home to flamingos, white pelicans and crested birds among other bird species. It is a paradise for any bird watcher and although I am not such a bird enthusiast, I could not resist the spectacular show as the birds skipped and chirped in what sounded like a symphony.

In June, Lake Elementaita together with Lake Nakuru and Bogoria were declared United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) World Heritage Sites. Lake Elementaita was chosen because of its wide variety of bird life and an array of campsites for nature lovers.

Elementaita originated from the Maasai word Muteita, meaning ‘dust place’. Although dinner was to be served at the lounge, we opted to have it at the open terraces facing the lake, quite a magnificent view just before sunset. The cool breeze from the lake was refreshing and even in the dark, you could recognise the beautiful lawns from the smell of crisp grass.

The ambience, fragrance and dÈcor of the room was worth the Sh13,000 charge per night. The thoughtfully executed African theme could be seen everywhere. From the beds to the cottage structure and the decorations on the wall, everything is African. The African artefacts give a rustic feel to the rooms. I later learnt the locals are contracted to make the artefacts and decorations.

From the balcony of my spacious room, I could clearly see the lake. For someone used to the morning chaos at the residential estate, including my neighbour’s crying baby and hooting matatus, the morning at Elementaita was nothing short of divine. Calm, quiet with an inviting chattering of the birds outside.

The cool lake breeze sweeping over the tall trees blew straight into my face as I stood at the balcony. This is the morning experience one should have everyday!

Horse riding experience

I walked to the lounge to enquire about the fun activities I could enjoy at the resort. I was informed of horse riding, bird viewing or a visit to the natural warm spa that flows into the lake.

Since I was in the mood for adventure, I opted to try horse riding. My greatest fear was if the horse would start galloping or turn its head towards me. I would scream. And even though I was assured that the horses at Pelican were healthy and well trained, I could not help feeling nervous.

I decided to watch other guests first and hoped it would induce some confidence in me. Mwangi and I followed the guests on horseback as they took a slow ride down the trail. The horse ride, I later learnt, gives you a great perspective of the area and a countryside feel.

Horse riding is among the fun activities at Pelican resort(Photo:Tabitha Otwori/Standard

As we strolled behind the horses, Mwangi gave us a brief history of the area. I was particularly fascinated by the story of the Kikopey hot springs situated on the southern end of the lake. Of particular interest was the Maasai’s belief that bathing in this spring could cure HIV and Aids. Mwangi informed me that the springs are the breeding ground for the Tilapia Grahamii that abounds in the lake.

The nature walk was lovely though part of the trail had small pools of water. Mwangi cut a branch from one of the trees and explained to us that Maasai used it to brush their teeth. I decided to give it a try. At first it was bitter, but as I continued to chew it, I felt its freshness.

At the lakeshore, we marvelled at the flamingos doing a jig as the other birds excitedly took a morning swim. A seemingly lonely yellow-billed stork industriously combed the mud as it searched for food.

After taking in the spectacular view and after a few explanations here and there from Mwangi, we headed back to the lodge for breakfast. As we relaxed in the beautiful terraces, everyone went quite. One would think we were meditating. Each of us got lost in our thoughts as we savoured the sweeping lake view, the breeze and the countryside feel. It was a lovely soul searching moment.

I could not help the feeling of a hangover as we prepared to depart after lunch. On our drive back to Nairobi, between the lodge and the main highway, we saw a dramatic whirlwind. At first I thought it was coming straight for our car, but it diverted and disappeared in the bushes. It was bigger and more impressive compared to what I often saw when I was young.

It reminded me of the myths we were told as young boys to explain the phenomenon that is a whirlwind. My folks would say the devil hid in it and we would scamper to hide.

It was a well-spent weekend at the Pelicans Resort and I promised myself that in my next Elementaita expedition, I would look for the old Maasai men who I was told have great tales of how Elementaita land was subdivided among the ranchers and the Maasai and how the agreements were signed on white cowhides.