Exploring Idyllic Kizingoni Beach in troubled Lamu

These exclusive holiday houses at the tip of Lamu archipelago offer a cocktail of refreshing cultural experiences and ocean views that will leave you gasping, writes PETER MUIRURIThe speedboat roars as it cuts through the warm, turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean as nearby mangroves sway gently from the force of the waves crashing against the coastline.Far into the distance, on the southernmost tip of Lamu archipelago lies Kizingoni Beach, with a cluster of seven artistically designed holiday houses that offer the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life. Set on 24 acres of pristine beachfront, the houses — named Kaskazi, Pepo, Kuni Jogoo, Wazi Dubu, Kusini, Jahazi and Kizingoni — are perfectly positioned for guests to take full advantage of the gorgeous sunsets that are the hallmarks of Kenya’s coastline.Jutting out of a coconut and doum palm forest, the enormous villas are imaginatively constructed using locally available materials such as coral rocks for the walls and dried palm fronds (makuti) for the roofs.I have one night to spare in Lamu and intend to use it in this secluded and idyllic enclave of the island.I am welcomed by Clemence, a subdued young woman and the Kizingoni’s assistant manager, who takes me on a brief tour of Kaskazi, a house with four ensuite double rooms, which will be my home for the next two days. When full to capacity, each house can accommodate between eight and 12 people, but on this night, I have the privilege of sampling the delights of Kaskazi all by myself. From the ornate lounge and the intricately carved Lamu doors that lead to the bedrooms, Kaskazi, like the other houses, is perfectly woven around a Swahili theme, retaining the authenticity that has characterised Lamu for centuries.Scrumptious dinnerAfter a refreshing twilight stroll along the sandy beach, I head back to the house where John, the chef, indulges my taste buds with some bruschetos — well… pieces of toast with tomato and cheese toppings. Kaskazi’s 16-metre infinity swimming pool, fully bathed in the glow of lanterns, provides the perfect backdrop for a small chat with Elijah Mwangi, the chief steward, as we wait for dinner. Born and bred in Nanyuki, he notes the difference: "I’ve gained a world of experience coming from the slopes of Mount Kenya to the sea level. Though far from home, my working here has given me a lot of exposure, both local and international," he tells me.For dinner, John has prepared a grilled lobster in garlic and butter sauce, steamed rice and stir-fried vegetables grown in the home’s gardens. With such a sumptuous meal under the stars, a glass of Culemborg white wine from South Africa becomes an irresistible temptation.While time may appear to stop in lovely Lamu, morning comes too soon, to my discomfort.Nevertheless, I intend to use the few remaining hours after breakfast taking a whirlwind tour of the other houses that define Kizingoni Beach before heading back to Nairobi. Despite their vast and varied design repertoire, the houses share some common characteristics. In addition to each having a glittering pool as a centerpiece, most rooms enjoy amazing ocean views thanks to the wide and open spaces. An intricate web of staircases links up the spacious, mirrored master suites. Well placed in all verandas are swinging beds that some guests, I am told, prefer to spend the night sleeping on. Mesmerising too, is the elaborate fabric work, some of it sourced from nearby Lamu town, Morocco and the Far East but woven by an in-house tailor. Done in a colonial Arab Swahili style, the furnishings beautifully adorn the communal lounges, commonly known as the baraza. Beach volleyballLike Kaskazi, each house is manned by a team of seven; a head steward, chef, room steward, laundry person, gardener, boat captain and a security guard, all ensuring that you enjoy Swahili living by international standards. Some light showers provide much relief to my body already drenched in sweat after the two-hour tour of the property.I regret the fact that I do not have enough time to engage in the many beach activities such as donkey riding, kite surfing, fishing along the creeks or joining the local boys in beach volleyball. My morning gone, I head back to Kaskazi for some light lunch of crab cake and potato chips. I try to ignore the revving of the boat engine by Mbwana, the captain who is supposed to take me to Mada Island for an afternoon flight to Nairobi. I must visit my room in Kaskazi one more time and pick my belongings, which I had deliberately left behind in the morning.With nostalgia, I reluctantly saunter to the boat, escorted by my house crew and the resident Samburu dancers. Despite the unfinished business, my brief stay in Kizingoni Beach leaves a memorable imprint that could not be wiped out by the salty Indian Ocean breeze.

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