Tragedy and triumph at Haller Park

By Christine Bukania

The migration of people from upcountry to the coastal city of Mombasa is akin to the annual wildebeest migration in many ways. The rush for suddenly limited resources in form of accommodation, especially for poor planners, leads to a mad race on the Nairobi-Mombasa highway.

Hippos at the park. An orphaned hippo was adopted by a tortoise here.

And typical of any migration, a good proportion of those who embark on the journey do not live to savour the destination, their wasting remains the only testament to their happy intentions.

Majority make it to the sandy beaches, makuti bars and restaurants and fancy discotheques with the routine being beach by day and club by night. This is with bouts of hibernation and trips to the supermarkets to find concoctions to nurse hangovers, missing out on many other pleasures.

Cool shade

A visit to Haller Park is a cost-effective option to clear the head and cool off from the exhausting heat of Mombasa. It is located off the Mombasa – Malindi Road right after Nakumatt Nyali.

The best time to get to Haller Park is after 2pm when the sun is at its hottest and a refreshing walk in the woods presents the most refreshing experience.

Having parted with Sh250 on entry and standing on top of flight of concrete stairs at the entrance, the only thing that can be heard is the sound of the rustling leaves, the chirping of birds and the buzzing of insects. The cool shade beckons and literally forces your feet to descend into the forest below. It is hard to believe that where this lush vegetation stands was once a barren limestone quarry.

A short walk through the trees and across small waterways brings you to the reception area, an open enclosure with a makuti structure. Here you can watch educational videos or read the notices on different types of animals.

I didn’t know dragonflies were such interesting flies that upon reading I let my eyes see how colourful and unique they were.

Haller Park is made up of an intimate family, where all the animals are known by name and live in a cosy, almost domestic environment.

Owen and mzee

I remember reading about the amazing friendship between Owen the orphaned hippo that was adopted by Mzee the tortoise in 2005.

In his enthusiastic playfulness, Owen often put Mzee’s head into his mouth, jumped on his back and scratched his neck. But as he grew older and as his teeth grew sharper, he invariably started causing his best friend actual bodily harm!

Mzee now wanders in the bushes in solitude or hangs out with other tortoises in an open area, while Owen acquired a new female hippo companion called Cleo.

It is awe inspiring to watch another set of fully-grown female hippos rise out of the dark water, whose greenish tint lends the entire enclosure a magical hue.

Coaxed out into the heat by the fortified food that the handlers give them, the two large hippos stand side by side to enjoy their afternoon snack, oblivious of the hundreds of eyes trained on them and flashing cameras, and the dozen of monkeys that inevitably sneak off with some of their food.

Tale of the elands

The stories in Haller Park are of tragedy and triumph, and the guides enthrall you with the emotion in their voices when they talk of the Haller Park residents. Take the two elands that live in the field next to hippos.

"With father eland having grown old and frail, he was dethroned as head of his herd and banished to live a solitary life. The son, seeing the sad state that his father had descended to, chose to desert the herd and spend the rest of his days as a companion for his father."

Like many visitors at the park, crocodiles fascinate me and so I made sure I don’t miss the feeding exhibition at the crocodile pond. I almost felt sad for them as they were taunted by small pieces of meat hung on a string.

Another attraction that is likely to get many a lakeside tongue salivating is the fish farm with the colourful tilapia fish.

There is also something soothing about the rough tongue of a giraffe’s licking one’s palm. The graceful swing of their necks as they lower their heads to your level and the trusting connection that you make with them for just a little while is enthralling.

Chattering monkeys accompany you on the forest trail as you take a glimpse their acrobatic stunts on trees, fight ferociously, steal food from the other park inhabitants or just follow you with their eyes.

Their presence, as well as the sound of birds and insects, makes the park less lonely for the solitary visitor who is out to just take a walk and cool off from the hot Mombasa sun.