Cashing in on a sunken village

By Augustine Oduor

Kenya is blessed with a unique geological landscape that offers a wide array of scenic attractions and a variety of climates.

Sandy beaches, an array of thrilling wild animals, bountiful farmlands, barren deserts, dense forests and a snow-capped mountain peak sell the country as a favourite tourist destination in Africa.

However, for a very long time, only the Kenyan coast and the premier national parks have perfectly been marketed to tourists thus dominating other scenic beauties.

A recent spot check across Nyanza revealed there are potential tourist sites that are overshadowed by tourist premier sites. About 70 kilometres from Kisumu town is Simbi Nyaima Crater Lake and bird sanctuary.

Simbi Nyaima in Kendu Bay is a mysterious crater lake with healing powers and is drawing flamingos all the way from Nakuru, turning it into a tourist destination.

I set off last week from Kisumu town to the site. At the junction of Kisii-Kisumu Road, I turned right and drove to Oyugis.

For once I enjoyed driving here thanks to the smooth road stretching up to Kendu Bay. Thereafter the ongoing road construction slowed down the journey, but after two kilometres, I was ushered into a huge pool of stagnant water spanning about five kilometres.

Do not be misled by the term ‘stagnant water’ for this breath-taking scene rests about ten metres above the main land and is surrounded by green trees, which is home to birds of various species.

Neat earthen roads circle the lake connecting the village and the lake to the nearby Lake Victoria, about one kilometre from the Crater Lake.

The legend

I recall reading about Simbi Nyaima in my history books and this was a wonderful opportunity to confirm what I had read from the residents of Simbi Kogembo. I had earlier been warned to keep my scientific understanding to myself and not to laugh off any explanation, however farfetched it sounded. The locals here attach great importance to the site, according to the legends.

Ben Osike, a resident, told me Simbi Nyaima means a village that sank. He said according to local folklore, a hungry and tired old woman walked into a feast at the village chief’s home.

She was denied food and sent away. One woman sympathised with her and gave her food and a warm bath. The old woman advised the kind woman to leave the village with all her children and husband. No sooner had they left than a heavy storm swept the whole village and it sank.

You will be amazed at how deeply the locals believe this tale; they tell it without even blinking an eye.

Since areas adjacent to the lake are dry, it is believed the water came into being as a token of appreciation by the strange woman.

Until today, Simbi Nyaima is a huge pool of still waters reflecting the blue sky to a fault. From a distance, the sky seems to shake to the slight ripples of the waters.

The high ground around the lake provides a perfect viewing point for about ten metres all wrapped up in a lush beautiful view not known to many.

From one edge to another, the lake spans about five hundred metres, a perfect flat water floor for sporting activities such as boat riding, swimming and other similar family events.

The lake, which is full of algae, is held with a measure of sacredness. It is believed to have some miraculous healing power. Various skin rashes have been known to disappear after a bath at the lake.

Unfortunately, these scenic attractions are yet to be tapped to benefit locals and boost national tourism as well.

In the early 1970s, according to villagers, Simbi Nyaima was a major tourist attraction site that brought many international visitors. In 1972, for instance, tourists from Britain swarmed the lake for about two months in what was seen as a rare peak.

Kepha Otun’g, Chairman of Simbi Nyaima Development Association (left) and Ben Osike, a member at the Crater Lake.

The flamingos

"They engaged in many water sports and rode on boats to enjoy the beautiful view of flamingo birds. But since then, the scenic mythological beauty of the lake has never benefited the locals again," says Osike.

This month, the residents of Simbi Nyaima are preparing to receive their annual visitors — the flamingos. Kepher Owino, whose home is a few metres from the lake, says many visitors including schools, colleges and local tourists swarm the lake to hear all about its mystery.

He says every July, a swarm of flamingo birds visit the Crater Lake from Lake Nakuru, adding to the beautiful view.

While Nakuru residents are busy speculating why the birds are running away from their considered natural habitat, 200 kilometres away at Simbi Nyaima, residents are thrilled with their new visitors.

To them, the flamingo "invasion" is treated with reverence and is all part of the mysteries of the lake. And as die-hard flamingo lovers travel all the way to Simbi Nyaima, residents of the area believe this is a second miracle in the making. They treasure the event with the hope that tourism will germinate and take root once again.

Already, residents have formed an association to tap into the scenic site to benefit locals.

Bob Onimo, the chairman of South Nyanza Tourist Association, says they will identify and facilitate protection and conservation of both cultural and natural heritage in the region. They will strive to create awareness among local and international tourists about the tourism wealth of the area.

The community-based initiative has now resolved to engage the Government and other stakeholders to fence the lake, plant trees, clean the water, erect benches around the shores and introduce water sports. Bicycle riding, athletics and other sports are also to be introduced if the plans by the community bear fruit.

Domestic tourists

"We receive tourists almost three times a week, mostly domestic visitors. But we feel it is our duty to benefit from the gem naturally presented to us by God," says Ezra Opar, who owns a chain of hotels in Kendu Bay.

He said hoteliers are renovating and expanding their existing facilities to accommodate the growing influx of tourists in the region

"Plans are also underway to liaise with various stakeholders such as the museums to build a cultural attraction in the area to maintain the status of the lake for generations to come," he adds.

Having had enough of the mysterious lake, we headed to Big 5 Hotel in Kendu Bay for lunch. Over a plate of fish and steaming ugali, I reflected on everything I had heard and seen on Simbi Nyaima.

Though the national parks and their exciting wilderness safaris have made Kenya one of the most favoured tourist destinations in the world, should the vision envisaged by locals at Simbi Nyaima pass, Kenya stands to sell a lot more besides the popular premier tourist sites.