The ABCD of strawberry growing

Hello, I am an ardent reader of Smart Harvest. I want to start strawberry farming at my backyard using plastic bags. I have a few questions regarding this.

1 Can I use cement bags to plant my strawberry?

2 Where can I source good split and which is the best variety to go for?

3 Which is the best soil to use?

4 What is the ratio of soil to manure?

5 Where can I source a kit to do my soil test?

6 What are the chemicals I will need?

7 Is it okay if I plant them in open space? Or should I use a net to cover the places?

I will appreciate any additional materials you will give me to make my farming successful as this is the beginning of the big strawberry farm I have a vision for.

[Nderitu]

Thank you Nderitu for reading Smart Harvest. If you have never grown strawberries before then growing them in containers is a great way to start. It’s an almost fool-proof option because the plants can be moved to track the sun, thereby enjoying more warmth and light than they might otherwise. The growing bags or containers can be elevated from the ground to evade the dangerous slugs and dodge soil borne diseases.

All you need to ensure is that the growing bag or container should have good drainage holes at the bottom or multiple holes throughout the container.

Strawberries have a fairly small root ball and can be grown in containers as small as 10-12 inches in diameter and eight inches deep. However, the smaller the container, the more frequently you will need to water.

Strawberries are so versatile. They can be grown in almost all areas in the country – they just need sun, shelter, and fertile, well-drained soil. When grown in bags or containers, all you need is a sunny spot where they can get at least six to eight hours of sunlight a day. If you don’t have a sunny spot, then light can be supplemented artificially.

Strawberries grow on a wide range of well-drained soils. Deep sandy loam or light clay soils, rich in humus are most ideal, with good moisture retaining capacity. Sandy soils are not recommended because it is difficult to maintain the supply of water and nutrients the plants need. Heavy clay soils stay too wet after rain, increasing the risk of diseases, therefore reducing yields.

About a month before planting, add a lot of organic matter, compost or animal manure. The recommended ratio of soil to manure is 1:2. A pH of 5.0-6.0 is suitable. Avoid soil that has had tomato or other berries before. Get in touch with your local agricultural officer to arrange for soil tests.

To have a good crop, start with certified transplants or splits. Purchase transplants/splits from a certified grower or nursery. Ask for the history of the farm if you are sourcing from individual farmers, this is as a precaution to help reduce the spread of pests and diseases. The transplants should be planted with their crown just above the soil surface.

Keep the containers of the strawberries in a sunny part of the garden, patio or terrace. Make sure your containers will receive at least six to eight hours of sun to increase the number of flowers and fruits. If the sunlight is coming from one direction, rotate the container every three to four days, if possible. This will encourage young fruits to swell and ripen.

Developing strawberries can be kept clean of soil by tucking in wood chips or straw beneath the fruits to lift them clear. Just because your strawberries are in containers does not mean no pests can reach them. Insects, birds and climbing creatures will still be attracted to your plants, so keep them protected with a netting.

Irrigate daily in the afternoon during the first month after planting for good crop establishment and two to three times a week from the second month of gardening onwards. Avoid overhead irrigation to prevent wetting the leaves. Drip irrigation is recommended.

Even with the best care, strawberries are short-lived perennials you need to change them at least after three years. De-blossoming/removal of strawberry flowers is recommended for the first two months to avoid premature fruiting, which leads to stunting and poor development of the crop. If you do not intend to keep them for many years, you do not need to do any pinching of the flowers. You can let the plants flower and fruit as much as they can and just replace them with new plants next season.

The writer is an expert on sustainable agriculture and agricultural solutions.