The golden age of pork is nigh and unstoppable

 Barbecue pork ribs. [iStockphoto]

On a visit to Mombasa some time ago, I was offered a curious menu: mbuzi ulaya.

It tasted very much unlike the mutton I am used to. It emerged later that mbuzi ulaya was pork. For religious reasons, pork was masked as mbuzi ulaya. It sounded exotic; marketers can be ingenious. 

I don’t eat pork, and that has nothing to do with my religion. I did not see a pig until I was in my 20s. Don’t ask me why. Its appearance and behaviour made me decide not to eat it, no matter the exotic name given or cooking style.  

Today, pork is popular, and few children can claim not to have seen it. I doubt if pork is still masked with exotic names. Pigs are everywhere, and the numbers are going up. Have you seen the many adverts in the countryside? 

More pork could be an indirect sign of modernity and economic reality. Think of it: as land is subdivided, the population of cattle, sheep and goats reduces.

Chicken and pigs take over. They need less land or space and can be reared on an „industrial scale“. 

Visitors to Europe and other developed regions will confirm these are „pork countries“. Curiously, China, the European Union and the US are the pig superpowers. 

The rest of the meat (including fish) is available but very expensive. We are slowly joining the trend. The shift to pork will be fastened by the economic circumstances. Slow economic growth means more citizens will go for the cheaper options – pork and chicken.  

Restaurants are likely to follow suit as customers get used to pork. The rising supply makes pork cheaper, and margins could go up for restaurants – Economics 101.  

Not so surprisingly, pork dens are emerging in every village and hamlet. In urban areas, pork is popular on the menu, including pork chops coated with honey. I will still not fall into temptations. Ever heard of rúkúri, a rare delicacy around Kiambu or Murang’a? 

The rise of pork is not just about our change in tastes; it’s about the hard economic reality. Let‘s also admit we import food tastes just as we import dancing styles and political systems.

Think of English tea when no tea grows in England! Add chapati, kebab, and hamburger, among others. Why don’t we import West Africa’s food? I love Ghanaian food, particularly kenke. Why don’t we eat fufu despite reading about it in so many novels?  Maybe it’s time to revive the Uplands Bacon factory somewhere in Kiambu. Is the land still there? There is enough evidence; pork’s golden age is nigh. Are you a pig farmer? Seen the gold? Talk to us.