Little sanctuary in the dusty plains

Kariandusi was a name that came up a lot in my high school Geography lessons. And so when I learnt that my next trip was going to be around the area, I struggled to remember what it was associated with. A little Google search refreshed my memory.

The Kariandusi prehistoric site was discovered by archeologist Dr. L. S. Leakey, after noticing some stone tools projecting from a cliff on the site. Kariandusi is believed to be a factory site of the Acheulian period. It is also the area that we source diatomaceous earth, the stuff that makes the chalks, water filters and some beauty products.

I also learn that a scenic marker close to the Kariandusi site attracts fitness enthusiasts and regular hikers. The table mountain, one of the six in Kenya, is a stand-alone hill located along the escarpments of the Great Rift Valley. It offers a good vantage point for the beautiful landscape of the Great Rift Valley including the Lake Elementaita and the Aberdare ranges.

Exploring the Elementaita shouldn’t be done in haste and for this trip, I was keen on a different experience. I had many options to choose from. There was the Kikopey Beach Camp, Pinklakeman’s Tree House and Koko Cottages. I however opted for a rustic cottage located some 300 metres from the soda lake. Tuliza Cottage, a three-bedroomed self-catering getaway house was an obvious choice for me with my large travelling group. It can house 10 adults in the three self-contained rooms and a huge loft that anyone young at heart will definitely enjoy.

We arrived just before dusk and being a hot January, were welcomed by dry and dusty conditions that characterise Elementaita during this time of the year. The main turnoff to the lake, just after the popular Kikopey nyama choma den, leads you to a barrier a kilometre away that lets you into Tuliza territory. The cottage is cosied up with wood finishings and hand-picked décor pieces.

Getting busy

The abundance of trees and the resulting cool atmosphere is a welcome respite in the desert conditions. The cottage is well stocked with everything we could possibly need. Mornings at Tuliza are characterised by lazy breakfasts by the lake, days spent in hammocks, hiking or bird watching. The Elementaita sunsets are a wonder to behold; from the orangey tones of the skies to the shimmering lake waters, it is the stuff of fairy tales. The evenings of our two-day stay were spent congregating around the chiminea (an outdoor fireplace shaped like a light bulb) for some drink and chat sessions that lasted till the early mornings.

I learnt from the cottage’s proprietor, Mworia Waringa, that the abode was originally intended as a getaway for his family and a book storage place for his vast collection.

“I have so many books that needed a home and I wanted this to be my family’s holiday home, but great reviews by friends and family made me rethink that,” he says.

The highlight of my stay at Tuliza, however, was learning how to ride a motorcycle and exploring the Elementaita shores in a different fashion; a definite must-do activity for thrill seekers.

For the whole house, the charges range from Sh15, 000 a night during the weekdays and Sh20, 000 a night on weekends and public holidays. If you wish to get a bedroom, the charges are Sh5, 000. Priority is given to bigger groups occupying the whole house.

FUN FACT

Elementaita is also home to the Kikopey Springs which are very popular among the locals. Some even believe that the water from the springs can cure AIDS.