A whale of a time at Steak ‘n’ Ale

By Tony Mochama

Last time I wrote about a restaurant with a balcony on Banda Street. There is another ‘balcony’ bar and restaurant in the central business district. This one is on the fancy Kaunda Street, located on the back-side of the 20th Century Cinema plaza. Of course, it is more down-market than its highly priced Italian neighbour, Trattoria, that has been on that corner forever.

Steak ‘n’ Ale bar and restaurant may be named after the traditional English establishment that is a near clichÈ in the UK — the joint where the ‘working class’ blokes go just to round the block for lamb pie and a keg of bitter after a hard day’s work in the biting-to-bitter weather of Britannia.

But like so many other recreational restaurants in Kenya, there is nothing English about our Steak ‘n’ Ale, in much the same way the nearby Hooters, instead of having barmaids baring breasts as in the US, is more likely to be over-populated with football hooligans.

Mannix mannequins

Steak ‘n’ Ale is split into three distinct sections. The bar counter area is on one’s left as you enter and consists of huddled chairs and tables that give off a near conspiratorial air to the place, with opaque windows gazing blindly outside and letting in weak light to the green, if not grim, ambience.

Past a little crazy loop of stairs that lead to the strictly utilitarian ablution facilities, there is a wide and open mid-section for drinkers and diners who do not mind the mass embrace that comes with being at the centre-of-section. The service, while oft-times slow, is more often quite friendly; and the lady manageress of Steak ‘n’ Ale is warm and personable.

The balcony facing Kaunda Street. PHOTO: Martin Mukangu/standard

But if like me, passers-by fascinate you, then the only place to sit at Steak ‘n’ Ale (unless it’s raining cats and whales) is outside on the wide if narrow balcony strip that faces the fashionable Kaunda Street with its Mannix mannequins and clothing shops like Kants, owned by Kumar.

There is no better place to sit as you eat, sip or swig at your stuff while watching the world stroll by, especially in the evenings. For people-watchers and writers like me, Steak ‘n’ Ale provides that most interesting of canvases — Nairobi’s fashion-and-trend setters trekking to their transport-like urban exotica at sunset as the Steak ‘n’ Alers enjoy their cup of espresso — unless of course it is Friday or Saturday.

Sound rationale

On those ‘happy hour’ days, after 5pm, non-alcoholic beverages aren’t served in the balcony area. The rationale is sound — one cannot throw rounds of tea to the mates, and the consumption of coffee has a body limit, so less money goes to the establishment.

The food at Steak ‘n’ Ale is okay but a little bland. The drink and food prices a little high, if manageable. The location is also accessed through an odd staircase climb in a little office building, though for older Standard staffers, that should not come as a surprise. This newspaper, before the centralised move to I&M Building (that it is said to ‘pierce the sky like a chip of blue ice’) was based where Steak ‘n’ Ale now is.

On odd evenings, after a drink or three, one can swear they catch the faint scent of old newsprint drifting in the wind. If you just want to pass the time shooting the breeze, Steak ‘n’ Ale is the place to be.