Lakeside thrills and hippo chills: Naivasha's untamed charm

A family of hippos play at the banks of Ewaso Ng'iro, at the Hippo Pool, Mpala Ranch at the site of the Mpala Live which broadcasts the images over the internet. [File, Standard]

Naivasha does not whisper its presence, it roars into your senses the moment you arrive. One minute, you are winding through the Rift Valley's dramatic escarpments, thinking deeply about life and the next, bam! A rally car shoots past, dust billowing, a reminder that Naivasha, leisure is a high-speed affair.

Vasha is not just a place, it is a feeling, a rhythm, a story whispered by the wind and carried across the lake's rippling waters. It is where history lingers in the air, adventure pulses through the land, and nature puts on a show that leaves visitors spellbound.

It is the perfect weekend escape for the locals. It offers everything from adrenaline-fueled rally races to serene boat rides among hippos. For international tourists, it is a gateway to Kenya's Great Rift Valley, where landscapes shift from volcanic craters to lush wetlands, and wildlife thrives in unexpected corners.

What truly sets Naivasha apart?

Naivasha, home to Lake Naivasha, once a silent witness to British flying boats gliding onto its surface in the 1930s, still hums with history. Before modern airports dominated the skies, Lake Naivasha was once a crucial landing site for British flying boats.

These amphibious aircraft, operated by Imperial Airways, connected Europe to South Africa, making Naivasha a vital stopover. Pilots favoured the lake for its calm waters and proximity to the railway, allowing passengers to disembark and continue their journey inland.

Once upon a time, the then-dusty lake town was a hub of elite air travel. Travellers arrived in style, stepping off their luxurious flying boats onto the shores of a hub slowly carving its identity. But as aviation technology advanced, concrete runways replaced water landings, and Naivasha's role in global air travel faded into history.

Naivasha's history is not just about aviation. It is also about the infamous Happy Valley settlers. Between 1920 and 1940, wealthy British expatriates made Naivasha their playground, indulging in lavish parties, scandalous affairs, and a lifestyle that blurred the lines between aristocracy and recklessness.

Their mansions, some still standing today, whisper tales of excess and intrigue. The most notorious of them all, Lord Erroll. He met a mysterious end that remains one of Kenya's greatest unsolved crimes. The settlers may be long gone, but their legacy lingers, adding a touch of mystery to Naivasha's already captivating aura.

Vasha has always had a knack for attracting adventurous lovers from the time of travelling by flying boats (now extinct), now air, road, or those who prefer life at a leisurely hippo's pace.

Ah, yes. The hippos. Forget lions, forget elephants; Naivasha belongs to the hippos. They are not mere creatures here; they are celebrities. Some have names. Some have stories. Others have perfected the art of sending tourists sprinting back to their rooms with nothing but a towel and untapped potential as Olympic sprinters.

Lately, the hippos of Vasha have been trending. You do not just see them in Naivasha. You experience them, whether you meant to or not. While some tourists take game drive sessions to see wildlife, others are abruptly visited by them.

There is talk across town (social media never sleeps) about hippos casually wading into a swimming pool, sending holiday-goers fleeing in every direction like startled flamingos. Meanwhile, guests at a hippo-friendly resort are treated to a spectacular show. The resident giants emerge from the water at sunset.

In one particularly viral incident, a hippo casually strolled into a resort pool, forcing stunned guests to redefine the term swimming with wildlife. Meanwhile, other lodges claim to have "resident hippos," treating them as VIP guests who need neither bookings nor breakfast fees.

Malack, my photographer colleague, tells me that some hippos have names, though I would wager none of them answer to "Roger." I make a quick note to find out about these dangerous mammals that are now friendly.

Birdwatching: An unscripted opera

Then there are the birds. Vasha skies are an open-air amphitheatre, each feathered performer contributing to the grand chorus. From regal fish eagles to flamboyant kingfishers, the avian residents ensure that no moment here is ever silent.

Though I am not an avid birdwatcher, I enjoy the wild chase of birds, an unscripted opera under the guidance of a naturalist guide. From Joseph Thoita, a professional guide, I learnt that Naivasha's birdlife is spectacular.

Over 350 species call this paradise home, each adding flair to the natural concert. During my birdwatching escapade, we captured more than 50 species, among them:

African Fish Eagle: The undisputed boss of the skies, known for its piercing call and impeccable fishing techniques. Lilac-breasted Roller: Kenya's unofficial show-off, flashing its dazzling colours with every flight. Superb Starling: An actual diva; bold, striking, and never afraid to demand attention.

Others included the Great White Pelican: The graceful glider, casually floating over the water like it owns the place. Verreaux's Eagle-Owl: The shadowy figure lurking in the woodlands, waiting for nightfall to make its presence known.

The Golden Crescent Island

With its open landscapes and strolling giraffes, this spectacular haven feels less like a sanctuary and more like a secret passage to a dreamscape, one you did not realise you needed until you arrived.

Crescent Island is Naivasha's hidden gem, where giraffes and zebras roam freely, sharing space with some fascinating feathered performers in Kenya. It is a must-visit unless you prefer your wildlife encounters purely accidental, in which case, wait for a hippo to surprise you at the hotel pool.

When the day winds down, the lake catches the last golden reflections of the sky, bringing an undeniable peace to Naivasha. The rally cars fall silent, the birds find their rhythm, and the hippos stay exactly where they please.

Standing there, watching the sky turn to liquid gold, I could not shake the feeling that Naivasha was not just a place. It was an ongoing story where adventure, history, and humour wove effortlessly together.