Mnazi moves from dingy dens to modern lounges across the Coast

Cylindrical pipe for drinking mnazi captured at Rabai in Kilifi County. Mnazi is a popular drink that boosts the economy of the Coastal people. [File, Strandard]

Once whispered about in the shadows of urban slums or hidden beneath trees in rural coastal villages, palm wine, popularly known as mnazi, is undergoing a quiet but remarkable transformation.

Long associated with poverty, old age and social stigma, the milky-white brew is steadily shedding its rough image and claiming a place in Mombasa’s evolving social life. Once consumed in dingy dens, popularly known as mangwe, it is now poured openly in neighbourhood lounges, clubs and modern social joints, where it competes confidently with bottled beer, wine and spirits.

Every morning and afternoon, boda boda riders criss-cross Mombasa’s suburbs, ferrying jerrycans of freshly tapped mnazi from palm groves in Kilifi and Kwale to emerging drinking spots in estates such as Kiembeni, Bamburi, Mtwapa and Kisauni.

The sight has become part of the city’s daily rhythm, a clear sign that mnazi has moved from the margins to the mainstream. It is no longer the preserve of elderly men or low-income drinkers once stereotyped as spending entire days in secluded drinking spots while their wives struggled to fend for families.

Such spaces were often accused of breeding social decay, from broken homes to the controversial claim that marriages for underage girls were negotiated over calabashes of the brew. Whether true or exaggerated, these perceptions stuck, pushing mnazi to the lowest rung of the alcohol ladder and prompting state crackdowns.

Today, several clubs and lounges across Mombasa have added mnazi to their menus. The clientele has diversified, drawing in working professionals, small business owners and young urban residents seeking an affordable, culturally rooted alternative to industrial alcohol. “I introduced mnazi last year, and since then I have realised people enjoy this natural drink very much,” says Francis Maithima, who operates a club in Kiembeni estate. “It has outpaced all other drinks I sell. My clientele is very diverse — even professionals come specifically for mnazi.”

Bar owners attribute the shift to economic pressures, changing health attitudes and improved production practices. At the heart of mnazi’s resurgence is affordability. With the rising cost of living, many urban residents are rethinking how they socialise. A night out built around bottled beer or spirits can be expensive; mnazi offers a cheaper way to unwind without sacrificing the social experience. “A 750ml bottle goes for Sh100 to Sh160, depending on location and season,” says Mary Mrombo, who runs a joint in Kiembeni. “With Sh1,000, someone can comfortably entertain two or three friends.”

Health perceptions, whether scientifically proven or not, have also played a role. Freshly tapped mnazi has relatively low alcohol content and contains natural yeast and sugars. Many drinkers believe it is gentler on the body and easier to recover from.

Among consumers, preferences vary. Some prefer freshly tapped mnazi, while others favour one that has fermented slightly. Mnazi tapped a day earlier — locally known as kilalo — is said to keep one intoxicated for longer.

“From my experience, it does not cause the kind of hangover associated with spirits,” says Maithima. “Many of my patrons also say it increases appetite.”

For others, the journey to liking mnazi has been gradual. “Initially, I didn’t like it when I was posted to Kilifi,” recalls Naftali Njoroge, a police officer stationed at Kiembeni. “For almost two years, the smell irritated me. I would mix it with beer or water. Slowly, I adjusted, and now I am a regular drinker. It is very affordable.”

Alex Odongo, a teacher in Bamburi, says health concerns pushed him towards palm wine. “I used to get frequent stomach aches when I drank beer. That stopped when I switched to mnazi.”

Perhaps the most visible change is how mnazi is sold. The traditional image of unhygienic, poorly lit sheds is fading. Sellers now operate in cleaner, better-structured spaces with seating, music and basic sanitation. Some joints mirror modern bars, minus the flashy branding. “There must be a fresh ambience to remain competitive,” says Maithima. “Sometimes there is a shortage, and prices rise sharply as sellers compete for limited supplies.”

This improved presentation has restored confidence among customers. Alongside these changes has been a quiet rebranding of mnazi’s cultural value. What was once dismissed as a drink for the rural poor is now a symbol of Coast heritage. For many young people, choosing mnazi is about more than cost — it is an expression of identity and pride.

Still, challenges remain. Quality control is inconsistent, fermentation levels vary widely, and hygiene standards are uneven.

Yet the direction is unmistakable. From hidden backstreets to respectable social joints, mnazi’s journey mirrors shifting economic realities, cultural attitudes and urban lifestyles shaping life at the Coast. Even the humblest traditions can ferment into something new in a changing city.