Down Kenya's most scenic waterfall

By Onyango Rachael

Driving into Nyahururu, the fields are awash with acres of green, be it maize, potatoes or other vegetables. The atmosphere changes drastically from warm to cool. Although I found it a wee too cold, the locals said it was warm. Even though I was warmly dressed, I still braced myself for a long haul.

We were to stay at Thomson Falls Lodge located about two kilometres from Nyahururu town. The lodge’s expertly manicured lawns and well cared for gardens and flowers promised heaven. A happy duo of traditionally dressed Maasai men ushered us in.

The rooms here are lovely and the architecture is unique, depicting a design favoured by the colonialists — wooden maisonette of sorts with a mix of wood and stone. After such a long journey, the bed was most welcoming.

The river flows after falling some 200 metres. The large rocks, water droplets and green foliage makes it a haven. [PHOTOS: courtesy]

The following morning the chirping of the birds chased away the last remnants of sleep. Buffet breakfast served in the dining was fulfilling especially when taken outdoors against the background of the rushing sound of the waterfall.

rushing sounds

Soon it was time to take a walk to the fall. As we drew nearer, the rushing sound of water grew louder and louder. The morning dew stuck to our feet and brought out a tingling sense to the body.

Shortly after before us was one of the most admirable of God’s creation. At the foot of the Aberdare Ranges, the waterfall reaches a staggering height of 200feet. To cap it all, we took the steep winding road to the bottom from where the water snakes away into a blanket of foliage rising as high as ten feet. Huge rocks line the riverbed and you get to feel the droplets of water blown by the wind.

The walk down was peaceful; the experience of walking down the winding bush track and stepping on the giant steppingstones was thrilling.

At some point, the wet conditions made it difficult to navigate the path. People passed us on our way down out of breath; they simply wished us good luck. I was not really sure why. Was there any lurking danger?

From the bottom, the view upwards testified to the sheer height of the waterfall. It was beauty beyond the ordinary. Soon it was time to get going and the wayup didn’t look friendly at all. I remembered the sights of those we had met earlier going up.

uphill climb

Word of caution to those thinking of visiting here; The trip upwards was an uphill task, not for the faint-hearted. My leg muscles have never been that worked out I cried many times out of sheer pain and an inward protest against the steep uphill climb. I’m sure I lost a kilo or two somewhere along the way.

Except for the sound of the waterfall in the distance, the quiet environment at the lodge is good for those seeking a peaceful haven to rest and reflect. For day visitors, the lodge offers its lawns for picnics or social events for a fee and people can carry their own food or be served by the restaurant at the lodge.

Lovers of Spanish soaps on television will be forced to make some changes because the rooms have no television sets.

If adventurous enough you can take a walk to Nyahururu town, which we did.

deserted streets

The streets are deserted and the local joints, most of which double up as restaurants at the front and a bar-like ambience (plus the nyama choma) located at the back. This is quite a contrast from Nairobi or other major towns where even getting a parking space is a tough job.

The most popular place, Jimrock, is a two-storey establishment found in a line of three others. One of the locals explained the silence of the town -— that unlike big towns where people sit in offices, locals come here to sell their produce and buy their supplies then head back home to farm.