Is permanent makeup a good alternative?

Before you realise the money pit that beauty treatments and products are, you will eventually reach the point where you need a permanent solution, or something close to it.

And for the modern woman, semi-permanent makeup (SPMU) offers a fantastic option for achieving lasting definition. The approach, however, must be highly customised, and to do that, you need to understand how your melanin content interacts with cosmetic tattooing.

The standard colour theory applied to lighter skin tones does not apply here. Melanin, the pigment that gives skin its rich colour, can dramatically alter how tattooed pigments heal. Deep skin tones possess cooler, sometimes ashier, undertones.

To counteract this and prevent the healed pigment from turning blue, grey, or purple, the artist must select shades with significantly warmer bases, such as red or orange.

Pigments also need a high level of saturation to “pop” against the skin’s natural depth. For that to happen, artists often choose colours one or two shades darker and warmer than the final desired shade, accounting for the skin’s capacity to absorb colour.

Women with deep skin tones are naturally prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and keloid formation, meaning the technique must prioritise minimal trauma.

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Eyebrows: Techniques that create a soft shadow are ideal. Ombre powder brows or machine-based nano brows deposit pigment gently beneath the surface, offering density and definition without the high risk of skin trauma associated with manual methods like microblading, a topic for another day.

Eyeliner: Placing a fine line directly at the lash base gives the illusion of thicker, fuller lashes and defined eyes without the harshness of a thick line, thus minimising irritation.

Lip blushing: If you desire pink lips that look natural, this is excellent for equalising lip tone or camouflaging natural hyperpigmentation around the vermilion border. Warm, berry-toned pigments are used to create uniformity and definition.

You must note that results depend heavily on the healing environment.

PIH mitigation: During this period, sun exposure is the enemy. If you must leave the house, frequent application of a high-SPF mineral sunscreen is mandatory during healing and afterwards to prevent trauma from triggering a darkening of the tattooed area.

Gentle healing: Follow the artist’s strict protocol for topical aftercare. Stick to prescribed, soothing barrier creams that help the skin remain calm and moisturised, reducing inflammation that could otherwise sabotage pigment retention and colour accuracy.