Bukoba’s rock of ages stands firm, one century on

By Mang’oa Mosota

There is an eerie silence in the church as the nun in a grey habit bows in supplication, and I walk in her footsteps with a mixture of apprehension and curiosity.

Finally, Sister Faustina Leonides stops, and speaks softly, voice dropping to a whisper: "His remains are to be buried permanently at the Bukoba Cathedral, which is currently under construction."

She is talking about Laurean Rugambwa, the first African Catholic Cardinal, whose remains lie in a tomb less than one metre from where we are.

We are at Kashozi Church in Bukoba Diocese, Northwest Tanzania, near Lake Victoria. Leonides, 39, has been in sisterhood for the last 16 years.

Different Shades

The cardinal died 13 years ago in Dar es Salaam, aged 85.

Rugambwa’s photo is encased in a frame, placed next to the tomb encircled with maroon sheets. There are flowers of different shades and an offertory made of timber placed on the side.

Inside the church, birds chirp from the rooftop as Leonides conducts me around around of the oldest Roman Catholic churches in East Africa.

It is older than the longest documented living person, 114 year-old Frenchman EugÈnie Blanchard of Saint BarthÈlemy, who was born on February16 1896.

Kashozi was built by the Missionaries of Africa in 1892, just around the same time European colonisers were making inroads in East Africa.

Fresh Paint

Some of the Bukoba churches built more than 100 years ago include: Buyango (1902), Kagondo (1904), Rubya (1904), Mugana (1905) and Bunena (1910).

Flavius Rwelamira, a local, says the diocese covers three districts namely, Missenyi, Bukoba Rural and Mileba Districts, administered by 150 parish priests.

In spite of the passage of time, Kashozi Church has had limited repairs, besides the occasional fresh coat of paint.

The entire structure is made of bricks.

The walls are over 30 metres high, with large portraits of Jesus and the Virgin Mary looking down at the pews, as though watching the congregation during service.

The roof is made of bamboo and eucalyptus rafters and covered with shingles. Some joints are tied with thick ropes.

There are three large main doors, and one has to climb about ten steps to get to the entrance.

On the top of the roof is a bell that is no longer functional.

The four confession rooms, two on either side, are draped in purple covers, with a set of chairs beside them. A workman is undertaking electrical repairs next to the altar, and has to stand on the chair placed on top of a table to reach his position.

Captivating Flowers

The tabernacle, where Holy Eucharist is stored, just behind the altar, has captivating flowers. The aisle is about three metres wide, and the pews made of hardwood – the ones ever procured for the church when it was built – and still intact.

Although the tiles used for roofing have aged considerably, the walls look remarkably good.

"Construction experts made an assessment of the church earlier this year and informed us that the roof may need replacing, but the walls could last many more years," offers Loenides.

The windows stand high and are decorated in a mixture of blue and purple colours.

Next to the 1,500-capacity church is a building used as a parking lot for bicycles and motorcycles, which reflects the missionaries’ recognition that the church would draw its faithful from far and wide.

Two large bells that have tolled for more than 100 years, stand in silence, awaiting the hours to rouse the faithful and lure them to church with their energised tinkle.

The evangelical mission did not just spread the gospel; it also produced souls who would minister further and draw more followers. For instance, the Nyaigando Nuns Training Centre is situated only 15 km from Bukoba town centre.

"It seems the missionaries wanted their impact to last forever. That is why they constructed such durable churches," says Rwelamira.

Massive Following

With 11 African cardinals ministering to 100 million Catholics in the continent, there is no denying the Church has massive following and influence.

Rugambwa built Dar es Salaam’s first Catholic hospital at Ukonga, within the city. He also founded a women’s religious congregation for Dar es Salaam, the Little Sisters of St. Francis of Assis.

He died on December 8, 1997, and his body lies inside Kashozi Church, awaiting permanent burial at Bukoba Cathedral, about 15 km away.

Kenya’s Maurice Cardinal Otunga was the other leading African prelate.

He was made Cardinal in March 1973 and died in September 2003 at the age of 80.

There has been a push for his elevation to sainthood, but the process has been painfully slow.