Slum tourism?

From the depths of Kenya's informal settlements has risen slum tourism, an activity that attracts mixed views. There are claims that it benefits only a scrupulous few even as tourism bodies skirt the issue, writes JECKONIA OTIENO

If you thought tourism involves foreigners and locals heading to posh and beautiful holiday destinations, think again. Kenya and other developing countries have been experiencing an unlikely form of tourism — slum tourism.

This is the informal, but gradually flourishing poverty tourism, a new form just like eco-tourism. It is not officially recognised, but is earning a livelihood for many families.

When and how did it start? The informal structures in shantytowns, the sewer trenches and congestion are a subject of curiosity for many who come from where none of these exist.

This has led to witty individuals coming up with a way to make a living through the visitors to the slums, of course in co-operation with the residents.

Not many residents are willing to discuss the matter given the explosive nature of the slums and the gangs that run the hoods — such as Siafu.

Beneficial projects

When asked what she though about tourists visiting the slums, Merceline Wanja from Kibera says it could be a noble idea, but gangs have hijacked it and only a few individuals are benefiting from it. She says some beneficial projects such as schools and clinics have come out of visits by well-meaning foreigners.

Take the example of Mathare 4A Primary School, which was given a facelift with aid from a German organisation. Another example is the Kibera School for Girls, opened recently by United States ambassador to Kenya, Scott Gration.

However, the projects sometimes just benefit a few connected individuals in the slums and guides.

Wilberforce Kaluwe (not his real name) works for a leading tour firm in the country. He is willing to share the secrets of the business as long as his identity is not revealed. He says it is difficult to conduct the business without contacts among the people on the ground, noting that there must be people to organise the visits and keep him informed of what the situation is like on the ground before he can come with visitors.

"Usually, we have organised tours just like those to the game parks. We get a number of visitors, mostly whites, who come to tour interesting sites, but we take that opportunity to advertise the slums," he says.

Once the tourists arrive, he informs them about the biggest slum in Africa and they are wowed. He assures them of their security and the deal is sealed. He does not forget to remind them that they are going to see poor, sick and suffering people who need help.

Meanwhile, he calls the organisers on the ground who immediately organise a band of women and children who are drilled on how to behave when the wazungu come. They have done this for long and know the rigours only too well, so they tow the line.

Some of the slum dwellers know they are used for selfish gain, but they don’t mind because they sometimes get tips. Dennis Ojiambo from Kuwinda slum in Karen notes that he sees people hastily organised to congregate in a nearby church where they are lectured on what to do when the visitors arrive.

Through a spokesperson, the locals present well-thought proposals funding. According to Ojiambo, most of these visitors seem to trust church or school compounds where these sessions are held.

The tourists, most of them naive, give the money oblivious of the fact that it is going to be divided among a few individuals. Some even leave with the promise to send more funds.

Object of curiosity

In-as-much-as there are people gaining, some see it as a ruthless form of exploitation and degradation of humanity. Social rights activist Okiya Omtatah terms it unfortunate and immoral that people’s misery should be turned into an object of curiosity.

Omtatah questions: "Why should someone make money out of another who is suffering and yet be happy that they are earning a living?"

He terms it open exploitation, which is just a root of a wider problem. He adds that it is dehumanising that human beings have been equated to animals that should be watched by tourists as if they have no conscience.

According to Omtatah, an extension of this form of tourism is in the numerous non-governmental organisations (NGOs) that are spread across the slums, which seek to replace justice with charity.

"NGOs promote this form of tourism through their colourful brochures, which tell of misery and helplessness in the slums. And when the foreigners see this, they assume the right thing to do is donate funds instead of questioning the root cause," says Omtatah.

He says to wipe out this form of tourism, there should be an upgrading of people to move out of the slums not upgrading the slums because that has already failed. He says it is a problem that stems from the world order in which countries up north have continually sought to keep developing nations down.

This form of tourism is nowhere near being recognised as an official form of tourism because Kenya, unlike countries such as India and Brazil, has no clear policies to guide it.

Lucy Karume, the chairperson of the Kenya Tourist Federation, states that in other countries, there is a form of tourism called poverty tourism, but the proceeds go into building basic amenities in the slums. She cites Bombay in India as a class example where this practice has been sanctioned by the government with clear policy guidelines.

She says if such tourism is being practised in Kenya, it is without the knowledge of the organisation and outside the touristic policies that guide the industry.

"It is very wrong to take advantage of people who are underprivileged," says Karume.

However, it remains to be seen what route this emerging form of tourism takes in coming years, especially with the difficult economic times that have forced many Kenyans to try anything to earn a living.