In a remote Samburu village lies the site where Academy Award winning film, Born Free, and Survivor Africa were shot. Stevens Muendo toured the site Joy Adamson was an author best known for her book, Born Free, a true story based on her experience as she raised a lion cub named Elsa. Her final book was titled Queen of Shaba.
Worldwide, Born Free became an addictive read for adventure lovers. It was printed in several languages, and made into an Academy Award winning movie.
The 1966 film Born Free, starring husband-and-wife actors Bill Travers and Virginia McKenna, and filmed in the bush over the course of many months, was a worldwide hit and made Kenya a popular filming country with American film makers. It attracted dozens of holidaymakers and adventure lovers.
Back then, the two Born Free stars became acquainted with the real Adamsons and the couples remained friends for life, working for wildlife causes. Travers and McKenna decided to do all of their scenes with the Adamson’s lions in order to recreate the close relationship that Joy and George Adamson had with Elsa. Further, they shot the movie in the cole’s compound.
Sarova Shaba Lodge located where the world-famous Born Free movie was filmed. Photos: Stevens Muendo/Standard |
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The theme of the film, which appeared on the film’s soundtrack album, was also a popular hit.
Second World War
Perhaps the most important aspect of the filming of Born Free was that some of the lions used for the film have been freed just like Elsa. This story was told in a documentary produced by Bill Travers, titled The Lions Are Free.
For us, it had been a five-hour drive from Nairobi before we got to Isiolo, the northern town whose historical heritage involves the colonial British Government, whose memorable activities here date back to the Second World War. It was on this town’s corridors where the Born Free idea was brought to life.
"Welcome to the Born Free County," our tour guide quipped as we drove through a dusty rugged terrain into the Maasai Mara Sarova Shaba Game Lodge, where the award winning movie was filmed.
"Look over there. That’s Mount Shaba from where Sarova Shaba derives its name," remarked our guide, pointing at the volcanic mountain that became dormant around 5,000 years ago.
Black rocks of volcanic earth laid the foundation of the terrain, sparsely covered with acacia trees and other rare indigenous species of desert, all proof of the historical activities that swept the Northern Kenyan spot decades ago.
After driving past grass-hatched mud shanties of Samburu villages and a number of dry seasonal rivers through bare arid thorn studded plains, in stark contrast, before us lay a mini forest of indigenous trees surrounded by magnificent natural springs.
"This is Kenya’s best kept secret," our guide said to an awe -struck group of tourists. Finally, here we were, at Sarova Shaba, the home of the Adamson’s, the natural oasis, the getaway game lodge where age-old traditions and modernity merge.
This is where Joy and George Adamson had it all.
"Shaba has a unique place in the history of Kenya’s game conservation for it was in this reserve that the author, Joy Adamson died. She was greatly known for her efforts in the rehabilitation of the compliant leopard to a wild environment," said Anthony Kashero, the Sarova Shaba manager as the team was ushered into the lodge’s reception with a cold drink, a welcome relief after the gruelling journey.
"Shaba was one of Adamson’s greatest African loves; it was in this tranquil wilderness where she released the first hand-raised lions," he added.
At first sight, the oasis, situated in the natural terrain of this breathtaking volcanic desert arrests your eyes.
The game lodge is set along the banks of the Uaso Nyiro River and is literally laid out around the natural springs bubble into the river.
Tranquil wilderness
The natural spring water has been harnessed to ribbon its way in and out, all around the property, creating a beautiful landscape.
Coupled with the large free-form swimming pool that flows around the lush gardens and tall trees, all this refreshing water lends a magical feel to this natural oasis. Yet, that is not all.
Sarova Shaba Game Lodge offers a unique experience that goes beyond game drives in the reserve. The lodge has a plethora of activities to indulge in: From bird watching and camel safaris to the viewing deck along the river, from where you can see and feed crocodiles. The game lodge is an ultimate tourist destination.
It lends itself naturally to the ideal exotic wedding, flavoured with the culture and traditions of the Samburu. The weddings are held at the landscaped greens at the lodge, with a Samburu elder blessing the marriage.
Lethargic monotony
The lodge is fully geared to take up all the arrangements so that guests can enjoy themselves without worrying about the wedding details. These include venue decoration using traditional Samburu fabrics, beads and handicraft, flowers, music and dance, bubbly toast and tiered cake, bush dinner with traditional dancers and photography. The lodge also has a mini spa to indulge the couple. The marriage licence, certificate and registration are also taken care of.
"You need to visit the Samburu village and watch beaded and decorated Samburu morans performing cultural dances and traditional songs," remarked Kashero as the team got down to a buffet dinner treat. A Samburu moran was entertaining the group, blowing alluring sentimental melodies into a traditional flute.
The crocodile-infested waters of Uaso Nyiro kept the night alive, the sky was clear and the relaxing environment was perfect for a soul search. Long after midnight, there at the private balcony of my suite by the riverbank, I meditated over the twinkling stars as I, too, pondered about the wonders of God’s creation.
Here I was away from the hustle of the city.; away from polluted factory emissions, annoying traffic jams and packed shopping malls.
Here, I didn’t care to watch disturbing news of politicians embezzling public funds and the insecurity that reigns in the city after darkness falls. I was away, away in a paradise of sorts. And I loved every moment of it.
The first of our four nights passed pretty fast with singing birds, and sprawling monkeys and baboons announcing the break of a new day.
Reticulated Giraffe
"Quite recently, this is the site where Survivor Africa, a reality TV series, which pitted contestants against the challenges of this remote wild country, was filmed," noted one of the waitresses, Veronicah, as we chatted over breakfast.
The Uaso Nyiro River breathes life to Sarova Shaba with its waters, drawing wildlife in great numbers to its banks.
It is the best place to find several endemic Northern species, including Gerenuk, the Reticulated Giraffe and Grevy Zebra.
The forests along the river banks are home to many birds, including local species such as the Palm Nut Vulture and the Vinaceous Dove. The forests are also home to leopards and elephants.
Besides Shaba Lodge, the entire Samburu region has breathtaking and magical beauty.
