Kilifi: Top beach of the coast

Walking into Salty’s Kite Village from the tarmac is like opening a leaf of a worn book chronicling the life of a slightly eccentric family that lives in an idyllic house surrounded by lush greenery and ocean winds.

With most kite surfing centres, the first thing you see is the beach after the musty ocean breeze invades your senses. Salty’s is distinct.

Huge Baobab trees loom over the parking lot sheltering and keeping the askari company. The place is brimming with nature; so much so that you can smell it. A rugged path naturally leads you towards the charming house and into an enclosed courtyard. The biggest of the baobabs sits centrally with a hyacinth pond at its feet. I peep curiously into the pond trying to spot its inhabitants. A decorative painting on the wall reflects colours and shapes onto the surface of the water, warped by the occasional ripple.

The crew, led by co-owners Ivan Lieman and Simon Perrone-Zimmerman placed a tight lid on releasing images of the space before its official launch on Sunday 2, November. The occasional reveal of the ongoing construction on a stunning coastline only kept the public guessing.

Water sports on Kenyan coast

In this traditional travel season, the beaches of Kilifi where dazzling sand meets azure blue waters is hard to ignore. Any beach hotel worth its salt will typically offer at least one or more water-based activities, either sailing, water skiing, Jet Ski, diving, windsurfing, deep-sea fishing or a suitable combination.

Unlike their beach hotel counterparts, however, kite surfing centres are mostly uncrowded, set on the pristine beaches with minimal decor and chill vibes. As unassuming as they may be, they offer world-class kite surfing programmes on award-winning beaches.

When it typically comes to planning a kite surfing holiday, location is high up on the list of priorities. More importantly, however, are the wind conditions. 

The reliable trade winds on the East African coast — the Kaskazi (northeast wind, blowing between December and March), and the Kusi (south wind, October to November) are perfectly synchronised with holidays, making Kenya an ideal destination for a Kite Surfari. Kiting enthusiasts will make reference to Che Shale Kite Centre on Mambrui beach, a cool 20km north of Malindi Town and Kenyaways Kite School in Galu, Diani; not forgetting the private instructors who dot the coastline.

New kid in town 

The new player in the kite game — Salty’s Kite Village — is intent on making Kilifi the next kite surfing destination.

Getting to Salty’s from Mombasa or Malindi takes just over an hour by road. Travellers from Nairobi have the options of rail, road and sky. The swift can fly conveniently into Vipingo airstrip, a 20 minutes’ drive from Kilifi Town. 

One fateful afternoon, two longtime friends Ivan and Simon were inspired to turn their ultimate dream into reality. They bumped onto this property whose owner was angling to demolish the house and erect a modern structure. It was that moment that the pair wisely decided to take over the lease, in a conscious effort to preserve not only the historic buildings but also the natural environment.

Nine months later and their brainchild is born. The chosen name is a tribute to the adage “Salty Old Seadog” — a sailor with many years’ experience at sea which mirrors Ivan and Simon’s love for the ocean and the beach. The dynamic duo spend a good amount of time on the beach and in the water "getting salty", Simon says.

Spanish-Kenyan, Ivan grew up in Mombasa and is acquainted with the ocean where he spends time fishing, kite surfing, sailing … you name it. And in his travels, he always looks for destinations with salty bodies of water. So it is fitting that his passion project is affectionately named after his own life experience.

If you are expecting to find a stereotypical Spartan shack constructed from recycled wood, maritime paraphernalia and a tired barkeep handing over sweaty beers to equally drench long-haired surfers, then you’re in for a surprise. Although Salty’s is a little rough around the edges, it has been executed with enough restraint not to be classified as shabby.

While you will find recycled wood furniture, the beach bar design is refined minimalism that screams quality. The bar counter is made of large single slabs of heavy mango wood, and bench seats made from pallets are covered in colourful leso cushions.

At Salty’s you won’t hear rock music blaring from a scratchy speaker in the corner. Himself a DJ, Ivan curates the sonic experience at Salty’s to a tee. Each night, one of the staff or a guest DJ plays a careful selection of music to suit the day’s vibe. There is no music in the reception or lobby, however. Instead, the ambience draws from the natural sounds from birds and monkeys on nearby trees. From the main building, you can hear the waves wash up onto shore and recede gently-the epitome of calm.

It took five arduous months of TLC to renovate the dilapidated house on the property and construct the beach bar and kite centre. The result — a quirky yet minimal little lodge that is functional and full of character. The cherry on top is the location, Salty’s is tucked away in a little cove-like nook on the breathtaking Bofa Beach. Patagonian builder Simon speaks passionately about the various techniques he employed to enhance the character of the historic house. 

One of the rooms has an old sunken bathtub that needed replacing. Simon conceived the brilliant idea of filling the tub with fertile soil, effectively turning it into a planter. At a glance, it seems an odd feature to typically have in a bathroom, but it really works to reflect the nature outside. The original taps were conveniently left in to keep the plants hydrated. The rooms are simple, comfortable; each with a unique design, even the doors to each room is different, but draw inspiration from different coastal designs.

The lounge in the main building is donned with white walls, wood-panelled ceilings, natural wicker furniture and off-white cushions contrasting with the colourful splashes of leso covered plump pillows. Much of the original architecture has been preserved, including black and white chequered tile floors typical of the Art Deco movement of the 1970s, which give a slightly surreal feel as they lead you down the corridor. The open arch windows keep the place well-lit and aerated, revealing the exquisite garden and ocean backdrop. There is little that can trump breakfast with an ocean view and the house opens up into a beautiful vista revealing a luscious garden that rolls onto the beach. On the verandah is a huge neem tree, creating shade for a large cement dining table with wrought iron chairs. Speaking of dining tables, the restaurant serves enjoyable food whose ingredients are sourced locally.

After a hefty meal, walking around the property is a pleasant activity to burn some calories. The garden is lined with ancient trees - great cycads, neem trees and desert roses. Nooks and crannies in the garden are perfect for peaceful solitude, meditation and are a lovers’ refuge.

Expectations have been elevated for Kilifi’s new kite surfing gem. Their ethos is one of friendship, community, sustainability and simplicity. Ivan sincerely hopes that more businesses can open up on the beach to make the scene better, for healthy competition to better themselves and their community.