Bewitching beauty of former political hotbed

By Alex Kiprotich

The scenic beauty surrounding Kabarnet town, which sits atop a rocky ravine on the Great Rift Valley, bewitches the eye and thrills many a first time visitor to the town.

But what the visitor does not see is the past history of this town, which, apart from perching on the pedestal of hilly terrain, also used to rank high in the country’s politics.

Kabarnet was a political hotbed in the days of former President Moi, who, as well as other high profile politicians, hails from the area.

At one time in the 1980s, it was common to have Kabarnet frequently mentioned in news bulletins of the Kenya Broadcasting Corporation, owing to political activity there.

Exciting topography

The town’s former mayor, the late Philemon Chelagat, once became synonymous with the name Kabarnet.

The town is named after a missionary, Barnet, from the Alsace, France.

The locals, who are the Tugen sub-tribe of the larger Kalenjin group, added the prefix ‘Ka’, meaning homestead, thus Kabarnet (homestead of Barnet).

It was the administrative headquarters for Baringo District since 1907, when the colonial government made it the seat of the local government.

"The town got this name because of a white man (Barnet) who lived in the area during pre-colonial times. People referred to it as ‘his place’," says Mr Wilson Kipkoros, a resident.

During rainy season, most wild trees surrounding the town, which give it a lush green atmosphere, bear wild fruits and birds flock to it like bees to a honeycomb.

Visitors to the town marvel at the thousands of chirping birds that have made the hills surrounding it a bird watchers’ heaven.

A research conducted discovered that the birds, which are of unique sizes and colours, are the earliest species to wake up in Africa.

Kabarnet town’s environs have a wide range of wildlife, breathtaking waterfalls, numerous campsites, and exciting topography with spectacular gorges.

Its location is in close proximity to various attractive scenes, which include Lake Bogoria, Lake Baringo, and the Tugen Hills.

Lake Bogoria, where visitors can see boiling geothermal geysers, hot springs, and steam jets, is only a 45-minute drive from the town, while Lake Baringo, famed for its islands, wildlife, and hundreds of bird species, is only 30 minutes away.

"The region is a rich tourist destination and no serious effort to tap it has been undertaken," says Mr John Kimosop, of the local council.

Driving to Kabarnet, the view of Tugen Hills is spectacular and the imposing Elgeiyo escarpment is magnificent.

Bee keeping

Residents of the semi-arid parts of the region are mainly pastoralists, while people who live in the highlands practice large scale coffee and maize farming.

"Most parts of the region are semi-arid and people keep livestock, especially goats and zebu cows," says Mr Charles Kamuren.

Kamuren says the region is also well known as honey-harvesting zone, because the expansive bush surrounding it is ideal for bee keeping.

"It is one of the best honey-harvesting zones in the country and a visitor to the region cannot return home without the natural honey, fresh from the locally-made beehives," he says.

Kabarnet became a municipality in 1984 and the local mayor, Mr Julius Kiprop, says, despite its potential, they face many challenges like lack of a sewerage system.

For the last 24 years, the town, which has a population of over 30,000, has operated without a sewer line.

"We have made progress and soon we will have a sewer line that will settle this problem," he said.

The town has a museum, which displays elements from local culture and traditions, as well as information on Lake Baringo and its environment.

Kabarnet museum was opened in 1996 and has four main public galleries featuring the people of Rift Valley, their culture, indigenous knowledge and the science of education.

The main attractions at the museum are the exhibits, especially on the culture of the Keiyo, Marakwet, Samburu, Pokot, Nandi and Kipsigis.

In addition to this, some literature of the district’s history — from pre-colonial, colonial, and post-independence era — are on display.

The gardens surrounding Kabarnet Museum are so green and lush it has become a small botanical park.

Pre-historic human bones have also been discovered here, placing the town among places with rich archeological value.

Orrorin Tugenensis, which was discovered in a small village in Kabarnet town, is considered among the oldest possible modern human ancestors.

Rendered jobless

Though it could have been a global attraction, the artifact was flown to France, denying the town its place in the history of mankind.

Despite the town’s scenic sites, it almost fell to its knees economically, when the former President retired from politics in 2002.

Most industries, which operated in the area and employed thousands of people, have gone under, crippling Kabarnet’s growth.

Industries such as Makatiat, a large bakery, as well as hides and skin industries collapsed, destabilising the area’s economy.

"These industries employed several hundred people, who were rendered jobless after they closed down six years ago," says Kamuren.

Cotton was the livelihood of those living in the Kerio Valley lowlands, but the collapse of Salawa Ginnery put an end to that.

The cash crop was the lifeline of people residing in Kapluk, Chesongo, Bartabwa, Salawa and Barwessa.

Efforts to revive the ginnery have proved fruitless, after farmers boycotted planting the crop, due to the low price it fetches.