Kenan Miruka

As the chartered bus scurried along the Nairobi-Mombasa highway, I couldn’t help imagining what awaited us at the Sarova Taita Hills lodge in Mwatate. As we drove, we marvelled at the vast rangelands on either side of the highway spreading up to the horizons.

Shortly, we spotted a solitary giraffe balancing its delicate frame while attempting to cross the road. We occasionally came across buffalos, elephants and antelopes lazily grazing close to the road. The lodge is is within Taita Hills Wildlife Santuary carved out of Tsavo West Game Reserve.

The lodge’s staff were on hand to welcome us and carry our luggage as we disembarked at the reception area. As we checked in, we enjoyed a glass of cold fruit juice at the lounge area.

A rock-paved swimming pool at the Sarova Taita Hills lodge. [Photos: EVANS HABIL/STANDARD]

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A group of people was seated near the fireplace at the reception. We later learnt that they are relatives of a hotel staff member who had been trampled on by an elephant while on his way home at night. The Kenya Wildlife Service staff later shot the rogue elephant. We also learn that once an elephant has killed a human being, it is ostracised by the rest of the herd making it a hazard hence the decision to kill.

Tucked on the crest of a hill, the Sarova Taita Hills lodge is an ideal wild getaway. Built in 1973 by Lord Hilton, the lodge has withstood the test of time to retain its original magnificent design and structure. The panoramic view of the Taita Hills especially at sunrise and sunset are a sight to behold. Elements of the Italian and German culture dominate the architecture of the lodge giving it a restful and stylish ambience.

The lodge manager Willie Mwadilo later tells me the place was designed in a German castle style.

Salt Lick Lodge

Art lovers will greatly benefit from the beautiful paintings on the walls. All 62 rooms have a private balcony where a guest can view the wild animals at a close range especially in the evenings and early morning.

The manager is also in charge of the Sarova Lodge and the Sarova Salt Lick Lodge seven kilometres away. They use the Sarova Taita Hills lodge as a holding place for guests where they take lunch before going to the Salt Lick Lodge, which has 96 rooms and handles 76 per cent of the tourists.

A visit here is considered incomplete without visiting the Salt Lick Lodge built on stilts and frequented by wild animals due to the naturally occurring salt in the area’s soil. The lodge is situated in Mwatate District 60km from the Kenya-Tanzania border. Each of the air-conditioned rooms has a bathtub, a mirrored working area, chandeliers, a large bed and tea making facilities. There are two conference rooms — Baraza and Mwandu with ample conference facilities. The high roofs and trees growing on the walls from the outside are aspects of a German castle. A large crest of a German eagle is engraved onto the dinning walls to complement the German theme.

The German eagle is also engraved on the dining chairs. The walls are adorned with carved masks, shields and spears during a fight between the Germans and Italians at Mwakitao. The masks were tailor-made and carved on site by Kamba craftsmen in 1973 for Lord Hilton.

Mwakitao, from the English phrase ‘mark time’, owes its name to marching soldiers during the Second World War. The floor is made from stones sourced from Bura River that flows through the sanctuary.

Most of the materials used in the lodge’s construction are sourced locally. From the lodge’s balcony, one can have a picturesque view of the sunset. As we checked out on a Sunday morning, I regretted that we were not able to go for a wildlife safari due to time constraints but certainly I plan to.