Traditional meals in the heart of Mombasa

Caroline Nyanga

I went down to the Coast recently and when my stomach rumbled indicating it was time for lunch, I went searching for real African dishes. Kenlees restaurant, situated at Bima Towers on Meru Road, provided the perfect milieu.

A blackboard sits right outside the entrance announcing the day’s specials. On this day, the special was chicken and fish done in the traditional style and served with white rice. Other traditional specials include brown ugali, mnavu (also known as managu), mchicha and biryani.

A la carte menu

The menu here is strictly a la carte. Main dishes range from Sh150 to Sh250, depending on the portion. Other foods served here include tosties (toasted bread), various pies, salads with dressings, and snacks. Prices of individual items range from Sh25 to Sh200. Conspicuously absent are pork and alcohol.

The hall-like restaurant is plain but spacious with a capacity to seat about 140 people. No effort has been made to beautify it. The metallic seats and tables, though new, resemble those found in most school dining halls.

I settled for pilau, which was served with a banana. It cost Sh150. My drink of choice was a glass of natural fruit juice, which cost Sh50. All juices here are fresh as they are extracted on order. No sugar is added.

The pilau rice was well done and was of a superior brand. The meat, however, was overdone. Accompanying the meal was a bowl of soup and Swahili spices. I truly enjoyed the meal. By the time I was leaving, more customers were streaming in.

Appreciation

Famed for its Swahili pilau, Kenlees has gained popularity over the past few months, especially with lovers of rice-based dishes, including biryani. The restaurant’s weekend specials are particularly famous. For me, the visit was delightful and Kenlees deserves a thumps up.