Magical nights at Olare Mara

By Peter Muiruri

Kenya: I could hardly pronounce the name — Ntiakitiak — of the river that runs through Olare Motorogi Conservancy, northwest of the Masai Mara Game Reserve. But I could make out the loud grunts of the resident hippos as they mowed the grass around my tent, interrupting my sleep every so often. The thought of any of these bulky creatures crushing right into the tent during a territorial fight was not far off.

African nights are dramatic, even magical. In the Masai Mara, much of life begins once the orange disc of the sun descends into the horizon. There are few places on the planet where one can spend a night in a five-star establishment while surrounded by the creatures of the night, great and small. I have been to the Mara numerous times yet every visit reveals a facet of the famed wildlife conservation area not encountered before.

The new conservancies within the greater Mara have been touted as lifelines for the diminishing wildlife. Landowners have come together to set aside thousands of acres as dispersal areas for animals previously constrained in the reserve.

In 2006, some 277 such landowners came together to set up the conservancy that now covers 35,000 acres of prime grasslands, riverine forests and acacia woodlands. The conservancy has set a maximum of 72 beds in four mobile tented camps, or one guest for every 350 acres.

Hidden in a grove of woodland on the banks of River Ntiakitiak is the latest addition to the camps in the conservancy — Olare Mara Kempinski, the only East African resort to be featured in UK’s Daily Mail as one of the top 10 luxury hotels in the world.

Here, each tent is a perfect reminder of the classic African safaris with poster beds. There is even a honeymooner’s tent with its own plunge pool! In addition to the trendy indoor bathroom, those brave enough to share the night with the King of the Jungle can try the outdoor shower. 

Siesta

On arrival at Ol Kiombo Airstrip, our small team of journalists and other tour operators is met by Philip. His knowledge of the Mara is undisputed, having driven around the surrounding valleys and plains for the last eight years.

As usual, a game drive is a first for any guest to the Mara. Ours starts right after alighting from Air Kenya’s Twin Otter.

Not far from the airstrip, a healthy pride of lions is lying lazily, with tiny cubs occasionally disturbing the afternoon siesta. With such a laidback disposition on display, our chances of witnessing the famous ‘kill’ are almost zero, so we move on.

Further on and we chance upon a courting pair of lions — Muhikan and his nameless bride.

“They have been together for the last week,” Philip tells us.

Their straight gaze is the cue to leave them alone. We head to a nearby hill, where we sip cold drink as we watch the last rays of the sun.

Birdlife abounds here too. From the carrion-eating vultures to the tiny sunbirds, Mara has them all. We even got a glimpse of the lilac-breasted roller — Kenya’s national bird! Who knew?

We get to camp late in the evening, and after a warm shower and a meal, retire for the night, with the aforementioned hippo tunes in the background.

First light finds us deep in the bush on yet another game drive, this time in search of the elusive leopard. A few metres from the camp, we meet — again — with Muhikan and his bride. This time though, the pair is more accommodating of our intrusion into their private life.

With the two behind us and no leopard in sight, we set off on a short bushwalk accompanied by Kennedy from the Tourist Police Unit. Our trek takes us to the riverbank, where a bush breakfast awaits us.

All too soon, our rendezvous comes to an end, and we head back to the city with memories of Olare’s magic.