Up Mt Longonot: A hike like no other

By Erick Wamanji

Mt Longonot was beckoning. After a series of dramatic swerves on the Nakuru-Nairobi highway, we slipped into the Mai Mahiu Road. Cutting through hills and

Mt Longonot.

rolling over others, the highway offered breathtaking views. But for the narrow, winding road that was made worse by trucks that block vision, the journey was interesting and was spiced up by our adept driver Marto, who has trudged rougher terrains, and likes to tell of his adventurous hikes.

The thrilling dusty, treacherous descent.

Near Mai Mahiu township at the foot of a hill, we pulled over the road to a desolate dainty Catholic Church made of stone and roofed with red brick tiles. The inscriptions at the gate indicate that Italian prisoners of war built it in 1942. Neatly trimmed key-apple hedges skirt the compound. Save for the trill of distant birds, there wass not a single soul here. It sits still like a cemetery. Still, the flower gardens are well tended — hibiscus vines tumbled lazily and the bougainvilleas were in full bloom.

Inside the church were four benches enough to accommodate only two people each. The pews are narrow and the vestry dark and filled with rubble. I gestured the sign of the cross in honour of these hallowed, albeit deserted grounds and after a series of photo shoots, we continued with our drive to Longonot.

Game drives

The sky was clear by the time we arrived at the Longonot National Park compound. The weather was sultry and some tourists were applying sunscreen in readiness for the Longonot thrill. I was armed with my notebook, pen and, yeah, my faithful Nikon. And then the trudge to the hilltop began.

Hikers catch their breath at the viewpoint at the rim.

Whistling thorns flank the sides of the path as if cheering hikers on. At night, a guide informed us, the twigs whistle soulfully but. At that time, no one was in the park apart for a few roaming wild beasts.

Longonot has styled itself as a hikers’ paradise. It is the only park in Kenya where people come to burn off excess calories while enjoying the wild. There are no game drives here, although you could easily catch a glimpse of a giraffe, an antelope or a buffalo.

Regardless of whether one is ascending or descending the mountain, muscle is required. On the way down, you need to know how to apply your manual brakes. Descending was a hilarious escapade. The gravity tags at you and you have to stretch your hands for balance, almost as if you are flying. The climb is also a very dusty affair.

Panting and sweating

The sun-burnt semi-desert terrain is rugged and interposed by steep slopes overgrown with thorns and thistles. To successfully scale the heights, you need to be dressed lightly. Remember your sunglasses to guard your eyes against the heat and dust. You also need to carry water and glucose for bursts of energy. Strong sneakers are required. For such hikes, it is always better to climb in pairs or groups in case of an unfortunate incidence or accident.

A Catholic church at Maai Mahiu built by Italian prisoners of war. Photos: Courtesy

By noon, I had managed the first round: getting to the rim. I was panting and sweating heavily. At this point, I bumped into Martin, a resident guide who charges Sh100 for every trip uphill, and an extra Sh200 to carry a child.

The highlight of the hike up Mt Longonot is walking the 10km circumference. It is a feat that makes those who have done it feel a tremendous sense of accomplishment. According to Martin, any man who conquers Mt Longonot does not need Viagra because the hike enhances libido!

Treacherous descent

Longonot is about 90km from Nairobi. The mountain rises some 2,776 metres above sea level and is one of the many volcanic mountains dotting the Great Rift Valley. It has many ridges, interlocking spurs and a dense virgin forest. The bushes are complete with climbers, crawlers and runners.

On a good day, you will see the sides release a light smoke that spirals wistfully before vanishing into the atmosphere, an indication that this volcanic mountain is still active. At the top of the mountain is a vantage point where one can capture the picturesque plains and azure horizon.

When we got to the peak, we were filled with excitement. The stately acacia fronds stirred in unison as if to congratulate us. Many hikers don’t make it to the top. We toasted each other then ate the few snacks we had carried. Always remember to carry some food as there are no restaurants nearby.

Round the rim, we weaved through leech-filled rocks, the boulders and the shrubs. One has to be very careful, as some sections are so steep that it is easy to lose one’s grip. By 3pm, we were done with our hike round the rim. It was time to start the slippery, treacherous descent to the bottom.