Inside the spectacular Nairobi Mandir

The year is 1999. I am on a special assignment to document the completion of a magnificent monument of unique and rare architecture – The BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir (Temple), Nairobi.

I am awed by what I find out on arrival.  Standing at the centre of the three-acre plot is an imposing, iconic and grandiose hand-carved masterpiece of art, a symbol of how deeply religious and deity the Swaminarayan followers are to their faith.  The completed and now ready to be launched monument is an enigma. From Yogendara Savanna, my guide, I learn that the Mandir is designed according to the ancient Hindu architectural designs.

Yogendara tells me that for three years, (1997-1999) hundreds of individuals drawn from the global Shree Swaminarayan faith of the Hindu religion worked tirelessly towards the completion of this chef-d'oeuvre project. I learn that though there were other temples in Africa before it, it is the first traditional stone and marble Hindu temple to be constructed on the African continent. Indeed, it is the first hand-carved temple in the World.

Prophecy and mind-boggling details

In 1970, Yogiji Maharaj (Guru), when inaugurating the Hari Mandir in the affluent area of Ngara Road prophesied that a magnificent and larger Mandir would be built in Nairobi.  The prophecy took 22 years to happen during which a consensus was reached on September 1994 that a majestic Mandir incorporating traditional mandir features be constructed on a dedicated three-acre piece of land along Forest Road. So began the journey of constructing the Mandir.

A planning committee visited famous monuments in Jesalmer, Jodhpur, and Kerala among others to study their architecture and construction in detail. A decision was reached that the Nairobi Mandir would be hand-carved and be clad with sculpted stone from Jesalmer. Elgon Teak, Mvuli, Mahogany and White Oak was transported to India, curved and shipped back to be used in the project.

The Temple is made from 350 tonnes of yellow sandstone from Jesalmer brought into Kenya from the Mines of Rajasthan, India. The stone, my guide told me, was mined and transported to Pindwada, some 400 km to Jesalmer where it was hand-carved by 150 craftsmen. The carving work took the craftsmen two years to complete. The hand-carved pieces were then shipped to Mombasa and assembled in Nairobi like a giant three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle. 

The Mandir is set on a three-acre compound and is surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens comprising of over 500 indigenous plant species. The magnificent burnt yellow piece of art that stood before my eyes had five pinnacles and seven domes that formed the silhouette of this majestic building. The domes and pinnacles were symbolic – a mountain. You see, going up the mountain to seek God is the belief of many religious communities and the Swaminarayan community is no exception. To them, the pinnacles and domes represent the mountain and thus a place to seek and worship God.

Picking from where I left

It is August 2019, twenty years down the line since my last visit. Time seems to have stood still. I am back on another assignment, this time to record if the majestic hand-carved wooden temple has stood the test of time. On my arrival, right from the main entrance to the Swaminarayan Temple, I am confronted with what looks like a construction site. I think to myself: ‘the monumental structure actually never did stand the test of time!’ 

As I wait to be ushered in, I notice a hive of activity. The construction workers are seemingly in a hurry to finish their work. A few minutes later, a brilliant gentleman with the widest of smiles approaches me and introduces himself as Nimesh Wadhiya (sounds Luhya) my guide for the day. He is the Public Relations and Media Liaison Officer, a position he holds on a voluntary basis. He tells me that most of the Swaminarayan workers offer their service on a voluntary basis. Now I understand the motto: “in the joy of others, we find our own joy.”

Nimesh assures me that the Mandir is majestic as ever and has stood the test of time and will stand firm for many years to come. He explains that the on-going construction work is the upgrading of the temple because so much has happened in the last two decades. This, he says, is all in the quest to make the Mandir a vibrant place of worship and service.

“The Complex has become the focus of interest and wonder for thousands of local citizens and people visiting Nairobi and it would be in the public interest to ensure that the Mandir meets their expectations and beyond, says Nimesh.

The Present

Beyond a worship complex, the BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir is a fusion of traditional Indian wooden carving with modern technology that has attracted people from all walks of life, from visiting school groups to architects, who are marvelled by the stunning architecture and breathtaking artistry of the temple. This remains the focal point of the Mandir, even with the on-going refurbishment and expansion project.

“The Mandir exemplifies a system of construction that has been proven to withstand the tests of time, thus providing a place that will continue to generate memories and experiences for the posterity,” 

Indeed Nimesh’s words are captured throughout my 2nd experience and visit to the Mandir.  Even with the construction going on, somehow, my mind is at still, at peace, which my guide tells me is the concept of the architectural design. 

The inside of the temple is phenomenal!  It is more intriguing than the outside. It is all intricately carved in hardwood and has a dazzling carved dome in the centre that reminds you that you are in a pious setting.

Like in my first visit, I experienced the various facets of Hindu rites and ritual, as well as the core philosophical concepts of the religion. All this can be found at the Mandir Exhibition of “Understanding Hinduism” which provides a visitor with a concise, yet comprehensive study of the Hindu religion. It is an inspiring place to learn about the culture of India, the values and traditions associated with Hinduism. 

The Nairobi Mandir is the only Mandir in the world with an exhibition centre.

Adjacent to the Mandir is BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Haveli, a cultural complex which comprises a prayer hall, a restaurant, kitchen, dining hall, concourse, assembly hall, administrative offices, bookshop, gymnasium, dispensary, youth hall and a centre for social services.

The complex has several activities lined up for the young and old. Activities are spiritual and charity which encourage volunteerism. Some of the colourful festival marked are reminiscent of some of the festivals in India such as Diwali, Swaminarayan Jayanti and  Ram Navamin.

Great meal, modest charity and revelation!

From our conversations with Nimesh, I gather that at this outstanding complex, that provides for body, spirit and soul, you can have a tasty vegetarian meal for a token fee (you are encouraged to give, to help the needy). You will learn about charity work, all in a serene, manicured gardens. Majority of the worshipers going in and out are extremely charitable.

It is while sharing a puff (vegetable pie) and some sweet deserts (the Hindus love sweets and have over 300 varieties), that Nimesh drops the bombshell. “Actually the reason for the rush in the construction is that we will be having the biggest event ever in the Hindu calendar outside of India,” he remarks, leaving me astonished and gasping!

He expounds that for the first time a reigning Guru and the 6th spiritual successor, Mahant Swami Maharaj will be visiting Kenya (September 19th – October 7th during which he will celebrate his birthday (86th), the first time he has done so outside of India.

“Our spiritual leader loves Africa and has a soft spot for the continent, and in particular Kenya,” he states, adding that during this particular visit,  the Guru will hold special prayers where he will be speaking a blessing to those he will be in contact with. Nimesh explains that there will be a lot of pomp and celebrations, none of which has been witnessed before within the Hindu events in Kenya.

Parting shot

“And by the way, you are welcome to attend, and more importantly to pray and learn and be sure to extend the invitation to the members of the public through your platform (Travelog), the PR requests of me.

Any visitor to Nairobi should not miss visiting this majestic monument, a place for all to worship (provided you follow the simple guidelines), and a place to find inner peace and learn the sense of duty to humanity as depicted in the Hindu Motto: “In the joy of others, we find our own joy”

BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir Fact Sheet

Dimensions

Total Area: 10,200 sq ft.

Width: 99 ft.

Length: 140 ft.

Stone composition

1. Jesaler yellow stone: 16,500 sq ft (350 tons).

2. Carrara Marble from Italy 13,200 sq ft.

3. Kota stone from India: 10,000 sq ft.

Features

1. 5 Pinnacles.

2. 7 Domes.

3. 66 Pillars.

4. 40 Windows.

5. 23 Arches.

6. 4 Balconies.

7. 80 different designs.

8. 30 different ceiling designs.

9. 5 staircases.

10. 6000 delicate floral designs in wood.

11.  Coins in current circulation from 151 countries.

Other components

1. Ceremoniously sanctified bricks

2. Consecrated water from Rivers Ganga, Narmada, Sabarmati, Gondali, Gela, Nile, Lake Victoria and the Indian Ocean.

3. Sanctified soil from the sacred birthplace of Shriji Maharaj.

Workforce

1.  235 craftsmen during peak time.

2. Over 1 million man-hours went to the project.

Visiting Hours

1. 7.30 am – 10.15 am.

2. 11.00 am – 12:00 noon.

3. 4:00 pm – 6.00 pm.

4. 6.30 pm – 7.30 pm.